He mea whakarereke tenei waahanga mai i te Dressing Up: Women Influencing French Fashion (MIT Press), i taia tuatahitia e te MIT News Reader, i taia ano ki konei me te whakaaetanga.
Kei te kaha haere tonu nga kaihautu ahua ahua i muri i te karanga a COP26 ki te ao ki te mahi mo te huringa o te rangi. Ko Chloé te waitohu papai tuatahi ki te whakatutuki i te "mana B Corporation" e hiahiatia ana, a inaianei kei te pupuri i taua hiri o te whakaaetanga, e tohu ana i tana pono ki te whakaiti. Ko tana paanga ki te tangata me te ao na roto i te whakamahi i te kaha whakahou me nga rauemi e ahu mai ana i te matatika, i roto i nga rau o etahi atu kaupapa kua kino. ” nga kamupene putea ThredUp (i whakaturia i te 2009), Poshmark (i whakaturia i te 2011) me te RealReal (i whakaturia i te 2011). Kua whakarārangihia nga whakawhitinga, he nui te tipu o te toru, engari kaore ano kia nui te hua.
I te wa ano, kei te whaia e te hunga panui ahua, me te WWD, nga kereme tinihanga a nga rama papai penei i te Kaiako mo nga mahi e kiia ana he mohio kua kitea ki te whakangaro i te tini o nga pukoro korekore, kaua ki te whakatika, ki te whakahoki ano. whakama ki a ratou, i te wa e paunatia ana e te hunga podcast nga toa me te ngaro. Ko Amy Odell, kaituhi o te panui motuhake "Back Row", e aro ana ki nga kerēme rangatōpū teka. He tino nui, ahakoa ka tata tonu ka pa atu ki nga ture uaua i roto i te US” I kii ia "i tenei tau ka whakahouhia e te FTC ana Aratohu 'matomato'," e whai ana ki te awhina i nga kaihokohoko ki te karo i nga kereme taiao e whakapohehe ana i nga kaihoko.
I te pikinga ake o te "hokohoko i runga i te uara" me te "te whakapumautanga o te kowhiringa hua", he wa pai tenei ki te kite i te ahua o enei mahi ki nga mahi o mua. Félix and House of Worth) me o raatau kaihoko mohio o te ao? He aha ta tatou e ako mai i te 19th century u ki te whakamahi ano me te upcycling, te kounga i runga i te rahinga?
I te mutunga o te rau tau 1800, ko te ahua French te hoko papai rawa atu mo nga wahine whai rawa o Amerika. Ko nga wahine e whakapau ana i nga mano taara mo nga kakahu French ka whakanui ake i o raatau haumi ma te whakahoki ano i a raatau - ka mau i nga wa maha i roto i te waa o te tau, i te tau ranei, he rereke ki te aha. ka mahi ratou me o ratou whakapaipai tino utu Karekau he rereke.Ka mau ratou i te kakahu ki tona ahua taketake, ka whakahou ano, ka utu ranei i te kaihanga taketake, i tetahi kaitarai o te rohe ranei hei whakahou. i roto i te ahurea kingi o te pakeha.I ta te kaituhi korero me te kaitoi a Kate Strastin e whakaatu ana i roto i te Roopu Roopu Roera: Ko te Hitori o nga kakahu o Kuini Alexandra, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, i whakarereketia e tana kaikawe a Lady Liz me tana kamupene tana kakahu marena a Ingarangi hei kakahu ahiahi. I te marama o Maehe 1863, i etahi ra i muri i tana marenatanga ki a Edward VII. Ka kii mai a Strastin mo te Poipoi o Te Wairau i te tau 1874, ko te ahua kua whakarereketia e te Kamupene Elise te kakahu o Alexandra w.i te Waverley Ball i Raanana i te tau 1871. Ko te kakahu e mau ana i te tapanga Elise, ka tiakina i tenei ra i roto i te Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection i Kensington Palace.
I mau a Mary Endicott Chamberlain i te kakahu hiraka puru o House of Worth me te reihi, te pirepire me te weriweri ki nga huihuinga e rua o te kooti i Raanana i Maehe me Hurae 1893. Ko te huihuinga tuatahi ko te powhiri i te ruma tuhi o Kuini Wikitoria i Buckingham Palace, a ko te tuarua ko te marenatanga o te Tiuka me te Tuahine o York (i muri mai ko Kingi George V raua ko Kuini Mary). Kua waia hoki ia ki te whakahoki i ana koroka Worth ki te whare ahua mo te whakarereketanga, penei i tana hiahia i te reihi Van Dyke. kara i runga i te kakahu satin whero.
I te timatanga o nga tau 2000, ka mau nga wahine o runga o Amerika ki te tauira rangatira mo te repurposing kakahu. I te marenatanga a Erihapeti Patterson o Baltimore ki a Jerome Bonaparte i te tau 1803, ka mau ia i te kakahu ma, he mea whakakakahuhia e ia he maha nga wa mai i taua wa. Ko te kakahu French a Nancy Fowler McCormick , i naianei kei roto i te kohinga o te Chicago Historical Society, e whakaatu ana i nga tohu kua mau ano. I tae atu ia ki nga huihuinga hapori maha me tana tane, te milioniona a Cyrus Hall McCormick, me te mau i te kakahu Worth ki te marena o tana tama i te tau 1904.
He maha nga kakahu rangatira ka waiho hei taonga tuku iho, ka tuhia ki roto i nga wira, katahi ka riro ma nga uri e whiriwhiri me pehea e mau ai, me te kore whakarereke ranei. , me nga tulip reihi i mahue i roto i tana wira mo te taha rau o te kakahu marena o to raua whaea. I muri mai ka whakamahia e Alva raua ko tana tamahine a Consulo he miro i runga i o raua kakahu marena. huu weriweri me te kuti huruhuru chinchilla me te tapanga Maison Lipman mo te 1,600 francs. Ko te waitohu, na Madame Camille Lipman i whakahaere, i rere ki Paris i nga tau 1880, a ko ona kaihoko ko Maria Pia, Kuini o Potukara. I etahi tau 37 i muri mai, ko Alice Williams Pearse , he uri no French, e whakaahuatia ana i roto i te koroka me te putea chinchilla, kaore he koti, i tetahi huihuinga whakanui i te Tekau ma iwa Whakatikatika, na te whakatikatika i hoatu ki nga wahine te mana ki te pooti.Ko nga kakahu me nga whakaahua kei te noho inaianei ki HNew England. Ko Orme Wilson Jr. raua ko Richard Thornton Wilson III i koha he kohinga koroka ki te Whare Taonga Toi Metropolitan na Houses of Worth, Doucet, me Paquin, e whakaatu ana i te ahua o te tipu o te couture i roto i te peka o tetahi whanau Feel .Ko nga teina Wilson nga tama a William Buckhouse Astor Jr. raua ko Carrie tamahine a Caroline Astor.
Mo nga huihuinga penei i te Centennial Ball i whakahaeretia puta noa i te motu i te tau 1876, ka tukuna e nga wahine nga koroka e rite ana ki nga kakahu o o ratou tupuna i mau whakaahua me nga whakaahua. Ko etahi o nga wahine i whakamahi i nga wahanga o a ratou kohinga reihi tawhito i etahi wa, pera i nga Astors, nana i kohi te reihi Flemish me te Wīwī o te rau tau 1800, kua ora etahi. I te marenatanga o tana tamahine a Helen ki a James R. Roosevelt i I te tau 1878, i whakahīhī a Caroline Astor ki te mau i te kākahu wereweti pango me te kuti reihi 200-tau te pakeke.
Ko tetahi atu putanga mo te whakamahi ano ko te paru mai i nga rangatira ki a ratou kotiro, ki nga kaiwhiwhi aroha ranei. I koha e Caroline Astor he kakahu ki te hohipera wahine, ko Cornelia Stewart, kua marenatia ki te kaihokohoko AT Stewart, e kii ana i hoatu etahi o ona kakahu ki tetahi wahine i roto Me Kaiwaiata i roto i nga kakahu atamira.I ta Diana de Marley (kaituhi o "History of Haute Couture") raua ko Kate Strastin i whakaatu, he hua te mahi a te kingi Pakeha ki te tuku kakahu ki nga pononga wahine, a Kuini Wikitoria raua ko Alex pera ano a Princess. Sandra.Wales.Ko tetahi atu rerenga ko te hoko kakahu ki nga kaihokohoko tuarua, nga uri o te tauhokohoko kua roa o Uropi mo nga kakahu kakahu. .I te rau tau 1800, ka hoko nga mema o te whanau kingi ki etahi kaihokohoko kakahu.
Mai i te timatanga o te rau tau 1800, he hitori ano a Ingarangi mo te hoko kakahu kingi me te rangatira rangatira i runga i nga whakawhitinga kakahu tawhito i Rawhiti London, ko nga korero a Jennifer Le Zotte i roto i tana pukapuka Mai i te pai ki a Grunge. I whakamarama ano ia i New York, he kaha tuarua- Ko nga mahi hokohoko ringa i te Rawhiti Rawhiti na te taenga mai o te tini o nga manene Pakeha tata nei i waenganui i nga tau 1880 me 1920, he mea whakahaere na nga Hurai whai wheako ki te hokohoko me te whakakakahu. i te mea ka aukatihia nga kaihopu hoko kakahu i roto i nga hoko raid aroha. I uru mai te Anti-Semitism ki konei na te mea i kiia nga Hurai o mua ko te rangatira o te hokohoko, i hangaia i runga i te hiahia i te wa i aukatihia ai ratou i o raatau mahi ka huri ki te kaata haereere. hokonga.
Ka mahi auaha nga kaihaka ki te tiki me te hapai i nga kakahu utu nui. I te matenga o te kaiwaiata opera a Emma Abbott i te tau 1891, ka hokona e Jeanne Kimball te kaakahu Worth me Félix i mau i Carmen i etahi tau i mua. he whetu i runga i te atamira. I te kore e taea e Elena o Montenegro te whakamahi i etahi kaakahu Félix hou mo tetahi wa i roto i te tangihanga mo te kingi Itari a Umberto I patua e te hunga anarchist, ka tukuna e te couturier tuatahi ki te Whakaaturanga Ao i Paris I te whakaaturanga 1900. I a ia e toro ana. Ko te whakaaturanga, i miharo a Francesca Redding ki te kakahu hiraka kaakaariki me te kaakahu chiffon, ka hokona e ia, ka tere te tuu ki runga i te atamira. Ko nga kakahu o te tohunga hapori a Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette, i ata tirohia i roto i nga purongo nama e mau tonu ana, i hokona ki New York. Ko te kaihoko whare tapere a Eves i muri i tona matenga, a he maha nga wahine i mau i a ia, e ai ki nga korero..Ka mutu, ka hokona e te kaitapere wahine a Sadie Martinot ona ake kakahu atamira Worth me Félix i te peeke i te marama o Mei 1894 mo te $35,000 (neke atu i te $1.1 miriona i tenei ra). i te tau 1892, “me nga remu, nga remu, me nga kakahu Basque i whakairihia e toru, e wha nga papa te hohonu”.
Ko nga kaihoko i roto i nga toa tuarua ko nga wahine o waenga ka mau o ratou kakahu mo nga tau. Ko Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh o Illinois nga tuhinga i roto i tana pukapuka rehita me ana pukapuka papanga nga kakahu me nga huu ka mahia e ia, ka "haehae" ranei i roto i nga tau, tae atu ki tetahi o ana kakahu. i te Whakaaturanga o te Ao Columbia i Chicago Suits, ko te mea nui, i whakahaerehia te huihuinga i te wa o te raru moni a te motu o te tau 1893. Ma te tino whakamahere me te tiaki, ka taea te tiaki me te mau kakahu i nga wa maha. Ko nga kakahu o roto kei te paparanga hei arai i waenga i nga hinu o te tinana me te paru me te nuinga o te kakahu.
Ko te mahi ki te whiwhi i nga mea e hiahia ana koe katahi ka huri ano, ka tohatoha me te whakawhiti i te ahua kua tohatohahia te ahua French ki nga kohinga huri noa i te ao. E ai ki a Strastin, i hokona te koroka o Kuini Alexandra e te American Art Association me Anderson Art Gallery i te tau 1937 , a ko te hauwhā o taua mea i hokona e Erin Lewison ka hokona ki te Whare Taonga Toi Metropolitan I whakaturia te Kura o nga kakahu.
Ahakoa he iti noa te mohiotanga o enei rauemi i roto i te ahua o enei ra—te huruhuru, te huruhuru o nga manu onge, tae atu ki te whakapaipai mahunga me nga karekau karekau he mea tino pai—ka maioha pea tatou ki tetahi mea i roto i te waa, nga tikanga whakamahi ano kua whakaaetia, me te mea e kiia nei ko te eke pahikara. Ko te ahua papai o te ahua French i hokona e ratou, na nga wahine o Amerika i kawe mai he whakaaro nui ki te maakete. Ko ThredUp, Poshmark me Te RealReal te kaupapa matua, me te whakaroa i te roanga o te kakahu hei whiringa kaihoko matatika me te matara rawa atu i nga taunga e hiahiatia ana. i te mutunga o te rau tau tekau ma iwa, i roto i nga roopu hapori teitei rawa atu, kaore he mea hei whakakore i te whakahawea.
Ki te nama i te kupu mo te kamupene matauranga ahua Motif, ko nga wahine o Amerika i hoko i nga ahua French i te mutunga o te rau tau 1800 ka whakaurua he "tauira porohita i hangaia ai te kakahu me te whakawhanake me te whakaaro o muri mai". .
“));var p=b(h[i.size_id].wehe(“x”).map(taumahi(e){Tau whakahoki(e)}),2);f.width=p[0], f.height=p[1]}f.rubiconTargeting=(Array.isArray(i.targeting)?i.targeting:[]).whakaiti(taumahi(e,t){whakahoki e[t.key]=t. uara[0],e},{rpfl_elemid:l.adUnitCode}),t.push(f)}ētahi Ahanoa(r.logError)(“Rubicon:bidRequest 在索引位置未定义:”.concat(o),n , e);whakahoki t},[]).kōmaka(taumahi(e,t){return(t.cpm||0)-(e.cpm||0)})},getUserSyncs:mahi(e,t , n,r){if(!U&&e.iframeEnabled){var i="";return n&&”string”==typeof n.consentString&&(“boolean”==typeof n.gdprApplies?i+=”?gdpr=”. concat (数字(n.gdprApplies),”&gdpr_consent=”).concat(n.consentString):i+=”?gdpr_consent=”.concat(n.consentString)),r&&(i+=””.concat(i?” & “:”?”,”us_privacy=”).concat(encodeURIComponent(r))),U=!0,{type:”iframe”,url:”https://”.concat(y.syncHost|| ” eus”,”.rubiconproject.com/usync.html”)+i}}},transformBidParams:mahi(e,t){whakahoki Ahanoa(r.convertTypes)({accountId:”tau”,siteId:”tau” , zoneId:”tau”},e)}};函数_(e,t){var n=obgetConfig(“pageUrl”);whakahokia e.params.referrer?n=e.params.referrer:n||(n=t.refererInfo.referer),e.params.secure?n.replace(/^http:/ i,”https:”):n } 函数 j(e){var t,n=document.getElementById(e.adUnitCode);(t=n.querySelector(“div[id^='google_ads']“)) &&t.style.setProperty(“whakaatu” ,”karekau”),mahi(e){var t=e.querySelector(“hōtuhi[id^='sas_script']“),n=t&&t.nextSibling;n&&”iframe” ===n.localName&n.style. setProperty(“whakaatu”,”kore”)}(n);var r=e.renderer.getConfig();e.renderer.push(mahi(){window.MagniteApex.renderAd ({whanui:e.whanui, teitei :e.height,vastUrl:e.vastUrl,whakanoho:{attachTo:”#”.concat(e.adUnitCode),align:r.align||”pokapū”,turanga:r .turanga||”āpiti”}, Kati:r.closeButton||!1,tapanga:r.label||kore 0,tiango:r.collapse||!0})})}函数S(e,t) {var n=e.params;if (“ataata”===t){var i=[];whakahoki n.video&n.video.playerWidth&&n.video.playerHeight?i=[n.video.playerWidth,n.video .playerHeight]:Array.isArray(Anoa (r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.video.playerSize”))&&1===e.mediaTypes.video.playerSize.length?i=e.mediaTypes.video.playerSize[0]:Array.isArray(e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0&&Array.isArray(e.sizes[0])&&e.sizes[0].roa >1&&(i=e.sizes[ 0]),i}var o=[];whakahokia Array.isArray(n.sizes)?o=n.sizes:kore 0!==Anoa(r.deepAccess)(e ,”mediaTypes.banner.sizes”) ?o=A(e.mediaTypes.banner.sizes):Array.isArray(e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0?o=A(e.sizes): Ahanoa( r.logWarn)(“Rubicon: 没有设置或找到大小"),w(o)}mahi E(e,t,n){var i={kaiwhakamahi:{ext:{raraunga:f({},e .params.visitor)}},pae: {ext:{raraunga:f({},e.params.inventory)}}};e.params.keywords&&(i.site.keywords=Object(r.isArray)(e.params.keywords)?e.params .keywords.join(“,”):e.params.keywords);var c=Object(r.mergeDeep)({},obgetConfig(“ortb2″)||{} ,i),s=Object(r. deepAccess)(e.ortb2Imp,”ext.data”)||{},u={kaiwhakamahi:[4],pae:[1,2,5,6]}, d={kaiwhakamahi:”tg_v.”, pae:”tg_i.”,adserver:”tg_i.dfp_ad_unit_code”,pbadslot:”tg_i.pbadslot”,kupumatua:”kw”},l=mahi(e,t,n) {if(“raunga”===t&&Huapapa .isArray(e))whakahoki e.tātari(taumahi(e){whakahoki e.waahanga&&Anoa(r.deepAccess)(e,”ext.segtax”)&&u[n]&&-1!==u[n].indexOf (Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”ext.segtax”))}).map(taumahi(e){var t =e.segment.filter(taumahi(e){return e.id}).whakaiti(taumahi (e,t){whakahoki e.pana(t.id),e},[]);mena(t.roa >0)whakahokia t.toString()}).toString();if(“mea”! ==v(e)||Huapapa.isArray(e)){if(kore 0!==e)whakahoki Huanga.isArray(e)?e.filter(taumahi(e){if(“mea”!==v(e)&&kore 0!==e)whakahokia e.toString();Object(r.logWarn)(“Rubicon:过滤值：”,e,”mo te kī”,t,”：期望值为字符串、整数或字符串/整数数组”)}).toString():e.toString()}else Object (“Rubicon: Kī FPD kua tātarihia: “,t,”: Ko te uara e tumanakohia ana he aho, he tauoti, he huinga aho/ints ranei”)},p=mahi(e,t,r){var i= !(tohenga .roa>3&&kore 0!==tohenga[3])||tohetohe[3],o=l(e,r,t),a=d[r]&&i?"".concat(d[r ]): ”raraunga”===r?”.concat(d[t],”iab”):””.concat(d[t]).concat(r);n[a]=n[a ]?n [a.函数(t){s[e][t]&&(s[e][t]=s[e][t].toString().replace(/^\/+/,”"))}): ”pbadslot”===e&&(s[e]=s[e].toString().replace(/^\/+/ ,”"))}),t===ab?(["pae", "kaiwhakamahi"].forEach(taumahi(e){Object.keys(c[e]).forEach(taumahi(t){“网站”===e&&”内容”===t&&c[e][t]. raraunga?p(c[e][t].raraunga,e,”raraunga”):”ext”!==t?p (c[e][t],e,t):c[e][t ].raraunga&&mea.matua(c[e].ext.data).mo ia(taumahi(t){p(c[e]. ext.raraunga[t],e,t,!1)})})}) , Object.key(s).forEach(taumahi(e){“tukutuku” ===e?p(s[e].waahi panui,ingoa,e:p(s[e],”pae”,e)})):(Object.key(s).roa&&Anoa(r.mergeDeep)(n.imp[0].ext,{data :s}), Ahanoa(r.mergeDeep)(n,c))}taumahi A(e){whakahoki Ahanoa(r.parseSizesInput)(e).whakaiti(taumahi(e,t){var n=parseInt(h [t],10);whakahoki n&&e.pana(n),e},[])}函数I(e){whakahoki”mea”===v(Anoa(r.deepAccess)(e,”params.video “))&&kore 0!== Ahanoa(r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaMomo. &&tohenga[1];whakahoki mai I(e)?-1===["waho","roto"].indexOf(Anoa(r.deepAccess)(e,"mediaMomo.".concat(ad,".context" )))?void(t&&Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.context 必须是外流或内流”)):S(e,”ataata”).roa-1||i>-1? -1===r?1:-1 ===i?-1:ri:en})}函数x(e){var t=parseInt(Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”params.video. size_id”));返回isNaN(t)?“waho” === Ahanoa(r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaMomo.”.concat(ad,”.context”))?203:201:t}taumahi D(e){whakahoki{awhe:{iti: [{max:5,whakapiki:.5}],waenga:[{max:20,piki:.1}],tiketike:[{max:20,piki:.01}],aunoa:[{max:5 ,te pikinga:.05},{min:5,te teitei:10,te pikinga:.1},{min:10,te teitei:20,te pikinga:.5}],te mato:[{make:3,te pikinga:.01 },{min:3,max:8,whakapiki:.05},{min:8,max:20,piki:.5}],ritenga:e.getConfig(“customPriceBucket”)&e.getConfig(“customPriceBucket” ).peere}[e.getConfig("priceGranularity")]}}mahi R(e){var t=!0,n=Object.prototype.toString.call([]),i={mimes:n,protocols :n, linearity:Object.prototype.toString.call(0),api:n};返回 Object.keys(i).forEach(taumahi(n){Object.prototype.toString.call(Object(r.deepAccess)) (e,”mediaTypes.video.”+n))!==i[n]&&(t=!1,Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.”+n+” 是必需的，并且必须是类型：”+i[n]))}),t}mahi k(e){var t=!1,n=["asi", "sid","hp"];whakahoki e.nodes? ((t=e.nodes.reduce(taumahi(e,t){whakahoki e?n.katoa(mahi(e)){hoki t.hasOwnProperty(e) }):e},!0))||Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: kua ngaro nga parama e hiahiatia ana”),t):t}taumahi P(e,t){whakahoki”rp_schain”===e ?”rp_schain=”.concat(t):” ".concat(e,”=”).concat(encodeURIComponent(t))}var U=!1;Object(i.registerBidder)(O)}},[ 787]),pbjsChunk([107],{875 :taumahi(e,t,n){e.exports=n(876)},876:taumahi(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,”__esModule”,{value:!0}),nd (t,”tripleliftAdapterSpec”,taumahi(){whakahoki m});var r=n(0),i=n(2),o=n(1), a=n(3);taumahi c(){ hoki(c= Ahanoa. tautapa||taumahi(e){mo(var t=1;te.roa)&&(t=e.roa);mo(var n =0,r=Huahanga hou(t);n0&& (t.user={ext:{eids:o}});var s=function(e,t){var n={};whakahoki Ahanoa(r.isEmpty )(e)||(n.schain=d ({},e)), Ahanoa(r.isEmpty)(t)||(n.fpd=d({},t)),n}(n, i);whakahoki Ahanoa(r.isKomo)(s )||(t.ext=s),t}(e);if(n=Anoa(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”lib”,”prebid”),n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n, ”v”,”6.2.0″),t&&t.refererInfo){var o=t.refererInfo.referer;n= Ahanoa(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”referrer”,o)}whakahoki t&&t.timeout&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”tmax”,t.timeout)),t&&t.gdprConsent&&(kore 0 !==t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies&&(b=t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”gdpr”,b.toString())), ka kore 0!==t.gdprConsent.consentString&& (g=t.gdprConsent.consentString,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”cmp_cs”,g))),t&&t.uspConsent&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”us_privacy”,t. uspConsent)),!0 ===abgetConfig(“coppa”)&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”coppa”,!0)),n.lastIndexOf(“&”)===n.roa-1&&(n=n.substring(0,n.length-1)), Ahanoa(r.logMessage)(“tlWaea tono hanga: “+n),{tikanga:”POST”,url:n,raraunga: i,Tonotono:t}},whakamaoriWhakautu:taumahi(e,t){var n=t.Tononga tono;whakahoki(e.body.bids||[]).map(taumahi(e){taumahinga(e,t ){var n={},r=t.width||1,i=t.height||1,o=t.deal_id||"",a=t.crid||"",c=e. tuku[t.imp_id];hoki 0!=t.cpm&&t.ad&&(n={tonoId:c.bidId,cpm:t.cpm,whanui:r,teitei:i,netRevenue:!0, ad:t.ad ,creativeId:a,dealId:o,moni:”USD”,ttl:300,tl_source:t.tl_source,meta:{}},v(c)&&(n.vastXml=t.ad, n.mediaType=” ataata”,n.ttl=3600),t.advertiser_name&&(n.meta.advertiserName=t.advertiser_name),t.adomain&&t.adomain.roa&&(n.meta.advertiserDomains=t.adomain),t .tl_source&&”hdx” ==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”banner”),t.tl_source&&”tlx”==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”native”)),n}(n ,e)}) },getUserSyncs:taumahi(e,t,n,i){var o=taumahi(e){if(e)whakahoki e.iframeWhakahohe?”iframe”:e.pixelWhakahohe?”whakaahua”:kore 0}(e) ;if(o){var a="https://eb2.3lift.com/sync?";whakahoki"ahua"===o&&(a= Ahanoa(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a, px”,1),a=Anoa(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”src”,”prebid”)),null!==g&&(a =Anoa(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”gdpr”,b) ,a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”cmp_cs”,g)),i&&(a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,” us_privacy",i)),[{type:o,url:a }]}}};mahi v(e){return!!e.mediaTypes.video&&!!e.mediaTypes.video.context&&”instream”== =e.mediaTypes.video.context.toLowerCase()}mahi y(e){var t=null;if(“mahi”==typeof e.getFloor ){var n=e.getFloor({moni:”USD” ,mediaMomo:v(e)?”ataata”:”panene”,rahi:”*”});”mea”!==s(n)||”USD”!==n.moni||isNaN(parseFloat(n.papa))||(t=parseFloat(n.papa))}hoki null!==t?t:e.params.papa}函数h(e,t){Anoa(r.isKore)(t)||Anoa.pātuhi(t).mo ia(taumahi(n){null!=t[n]&&(e[n]=t[n] )})}函数O(e,t,n,r){whakahoki e.map(taumahi(e){taumahinga(t){whakahoki t&&t.userId&&t.userId[e]}}(t)).filter( _(t)).map(taumahi(e,t){taumahi whakahoki(n){whakahoki{puna:e,uids:[{id:n.id?n.id:n,ext:{rtiPartner:t} }]}}}(n,r))}var _=mahi(e){返回函数(t,n,i){var o=!!t&&(Anoa(r.isStr)(t)?!!t : Ahanoa(r.isPlainObject)(t)&&! Ahanoa(r.isArray)(t)&&!Anoa(r.isKorekau)(t)&&t.id&&Anoa(r.isStr)(t.id)&&!!t. id);whakahoki o||kore 0===i[0]||Hanga(r.logWarn)("Triplelift: muhu ".concat(e," hōputu userId")),o}};mahi j(e ){whakahokia e.tātari(S).mapi(taumahi(e){re转{w:e[0],h:e[1]}})}函数S(e){whakahoki 2===e. roa&&”tau”==momo e[0]&&”tau”==momo e[1]}Anoa(o.registerBidder)(m)}},[875]),pbjsChunk([11],{15:mahi (e,t,n){tb=taumahi(e){var t= [];for(var n in e)if(e.hasOwnProperty(n))if(“pubProvidedId”===n)t=t .conci(e.pubProvidedId);ērā{var r=o(e[n],n);r&&t.push(r)}whakahoki t},ta=mahi(e){var t=[];whakahokia e.tātari (taumahi(e){whakahoki Ahanoa(r.isPlainObject)(e.idObj )&&Object.key(e.idObj).roa}).mo ia(taumahi(e){Object.keys(e.idObj).forEach(mahi (n){Anoa(r.deepAccess)(e,"config.bidders ")&&Array.isArray(e.config.bidders)&&Anoa(r.deepAccess)(i,n+”.puna”)&&t.push({puna :i[n].puna, kaihoko:e.config.bidders}) })}),t};var r=n(0),i={intentIqId:{source:”intentiq.com”,atype:1 },naveggId:{puna:”navegg.com”,atype:1} ,pubcid:{source:”pubcid.org”,atype:1},tdid:{source:”adserver.org”,atype:1,getUidExt :mahi(){hoki{rtiPartner:”TDID”}}},id5id :{getValue:taumahi(e){hoki e.uid},puna:”id5-sync.com”,atype:1,getUidExt:mahi( e){if(e.ext)hoki e.ext}},parrableId:{source:”parrable.com”,atype:1,getValue:mahi(e){return e.eid?e.eid:e.ccpaOptout ?”" :null},getUidExt:mahi(e){var t=Object(r.pick)(e,["ibaOptout","ccpaOptout"]);if(Object.keys(t).roa)hoki t }}, idl_env:{puna:”liveramp.com”,atype:3},lipb:{getValue:mahi(e){return e.lipbid},puna:”liveintent.com”,atype:3,getEidExt:mahi(e) {if(Array.isArray (e.waahanga)&&e.waahanga.roa)hoki{waahanga:e.waahanga}}},britepoolid:{puna:”britepool.com”,atype:3},dmdId:{puna:”hcn.health”,atype :3},lotamePanoramaId:{puna:”crwdcntrl.net”,atype:1},criteoId:{source:”criteo.com”,atype:1},merkleId:{source:”merkleinc.com”,atype:3,getValue:taumahi(e){return e.id},getUidExt:mahi(e){return e&e.keyID?{keyID:e.keyID}:void 0}},netId:{source: “netid.de”,atype:1},IDP:{source:”zeotap.com”,atype:1},haloId:{source:”audigent.com”,atype:1},quantcastId:{source:”quantcast .com”,atype:1},nextrollId:{source:”nextroll.com”,atype:1},idx:{source:”idx.lat”,atype:1},hono:{来源：“verizonmedia.com ”，atype：3}，fabrickId：{来源：“neustar.biz”，atype：1}，mwOpenLinkId：{来源：“mediawallahscript.com”，atype：1}，tapadId：{来源： “tapad.com”, momo:1},novatiq:{getValue:mahi(e){hoki e.snowflake},puna:”novatiq.com”,atype:1},uid2:{source:”uidapi.com” ,atype:3,getValue :mahi(e){return e.id}},dapId:{source:”akamai.com”,atype:1},deepintentId:{source:”deepintent.com”,atype:3} ,admixerId:{source: ”admixer.net”,atype:3},adtelligentId:{source:”adtelligent.com”,atype:3},amxId:{source:”amxrtb.com”,atype:1},publinkId :{source:”epsilon .com”,atype:3},kpuid:{puna:”kpuid.com”,atype:3},imuid:{source:”intimatemerger.com”,atype:1},connectId:{来源:”yahoo.com”,atype:3}};函数o(e,t){var n=i[t];if(n&&e){var o={};o.source=n.source;var a=Object (r.isFn)(n.getValue)?n.getValue(e):e;if(Anoa(r.isStr)(a)){var c={id:a,atype:n.atype} ;if( Ahanoa(r.isFn)(n.getUidExt)){var s=n.getUidExt(e);s&&(c.ext=s)}if(o.uids=[c],Object(r.isFn )(n .getEidExt)){var u=n.getEidExt(e);u&&(o.ext=u)}返回o}}return null}},897:mahi(e,t,n){e.exports=n( 898)},898:taumahi(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,”__esModule”,{uara: !0}),nd(t,”PBJS_USER_ID_OPTOUT_NAME”,taumahi(){hoki w}), nd(t,”coreStorage”,taumahi(){hoki x}),nd(t,”syncDelay”,taumahi() {hoki _}),nd(t,”AuctionDelay”,taumahi(){hoki j}) ,t.setSubmoduleRegistry=mahi(e){U=e},t.setStoredValue=B,t.setStoredConsentData=L,t .findRootDomain=V,t.requestBidsHook=K,nd(t,”whakamanaGdprEnforcement”,mahi() {whakahoki Y}),t.attachIdSystem=te,t.init=ne;var r=n(11),i= nn(r),o=n(3),a=n(10),c=nn (a),s=n(14),u=n(8),d=n(5),l=nn (d),f=n(9),p=n(15),b=n( 7),g=n(0),m=n(12),v=nn(m);函数y(e ,t){(null==t||t>e.roa)&&(t=e .roa);mo(var n=0,r=Huahanga hou(t);n1&&kore 0!==参数[1] ?tohenga [1]:kore 0,r=n?”.concat(e.ingoa,”_”). concat(n):e.ingoa;whakamātauria{if(e.type===A)t= x.getCookie(r);mehemea(e.type===I){var i=x.getDataFromLocalStorage(“ ”.concat(e.ingoa,”_exp”));”"===i?t= x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r):i&&Ra hou(i).getTime()-Date.now()>0&&(t= decodeURIComponent(x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r)))}”string”==typeof t&&”{“===t.trim().charAt(0)&&(t=JSON.parse(t))}hopu(e) { Ahanoa(g.logError)(e)}whakahoki t}mahi q(e){var t={consentString:”",gdprApplies:!1,apiVersion:0};return e&&(t.consentString=e.consentString, t .gdprApplies=e.gdprApplies,t.apiVersion=e.apiVersion), Ahanoa(g.cyrb53Hash)(JSON.stringify(t))}函数L(e){try{var t=Rā hou(Rā.now( ) +864e5*C).toUTCString();x.setCookie(T,q(e),t,”Lax”)}hopu(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数F(){试试{whakahoki x.getCookie(T)}hopu(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数z(e){if(e&&”boolean”==typeof e.gdprApplies&&e.gdprApplies){if (!e.consentString)hoki!1;mehemea(1===e.apiVersion&&!1===He ahanoa(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData. purposeConsents.1″))hoki!1;mena(2=== e.apiVersion&&!1===Hanga(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData.purpose.consents.1″))whakahoki!1}whakahoki!0}mahi V(){var e=tohenga.roa>0&&kore 0 !=tohenga[0]?tohenga[0]:window.location.hostname;if(!x.cookiesAreEnabled())hoki e;var t,n,r=e.split(“.”);if(2 ==r.roa)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Rā.now()),a=”tuhi”;do{t=r.slice(i).join( “.”);var c =Ra hou(Anoa(g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,”Lax”,t,kore 0),x.getCookie (o,kore 0)= ==a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,”",”Thu, 01 Hanuere 1970 00:00:01 GMT”,kore 0,t,kore 0)): (i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=mahi(){r||(r=!0,e())};mea (g.logInfo)(” “.concat(E,” – 拍卖延迟 “).concat(j,” 最多获取 ids”)),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)} else caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END ,函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(mahi(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&&e() }函数 K( e,t){H(taumahi(){!mahi(e,t){[e].etahi(taumahi(e){hoki!Huanga.isArray(e)||!e.roa})||e.forEach(taumahi(e){e.bids&&Anoa(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(taumahi(e){var n=taumahi(e,t){Return Array.isArray(e)&&e.长度&&t?e.tātari(taumahi(e){whakahoki!e.config.bidders||! Ahanoa(g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)} ) .filter(taumahi(e){whakahoki Ahanoa(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.key(e.idObj).roa}).whakaiti(taumahi(e,t){whakahoki Ahanoa.key(t. idObj).forEach(taumahi(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n] }),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.key(n).roa&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Anoa(pb)(n))}) })}(t.adUnits||Anoa(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]). kimi(taumahi(e){whakahoki e.source===S });mehemea(n&&” aho”==momo o Ahanoa(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”) ){var r=n.uids[0].id.replace(/[\W_] /g,”");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.roa?{kua oti:!0}:{kua oti :!1,uara:e[r++]}},e:mahi(e){maka e},f:i}}whiua Momo Hapa hou(“Muhu尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n为了可迭代，绞救必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o ,a=!0,c=!1;return{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function( ){var e=n.next();whakahokia a=e.kua oti ,e},e:mahi(e){c=!0,o=e},f:taumahi(){tamata{a||null==n.whakahoki||n.whakahoki()}最后{mena(c)maka o}}}}(i );whakamatau{mo(ss();!(a=sn()).kua oti;){var d=a.value;n.roa>0&&-1=== n.indexOf(d.submodule.ingoa) ||(Hanga(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,” – 刷新”).concat(d.submodule.ingoa)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.roa&&N(h), Ahanoa(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.pana(d))}} hopu(e){se(e)}te mutunga{sf()}c.roa>0&&W(c ),t&&t()}ētahi Ahanoa(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 pihikete，退出模块”))})}var Y=Object(fb)(“sync ”,mahi(e,t){whakahoki{userIdModules:e,kua Whakamana:t&&t.kua Whakamana}},”whakamanaGdprEnforcement” );函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;if(“tau”==typeof e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=Rā hou(M(e.config.storage,” whakamutunga”));a=c&&Ra.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!mahi(e,t){hoki null! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”mahi”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)), Ahanoa(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”mahi”==momo i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))} mena ka(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;tetahi atu{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,kore 0); Ahanoa( g.isPlainObject)(s)&&(“mahi”==momo s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) ))}}函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.preload&&e.preloadThreshhold&&function(e,t,n ,i){hoki t.top=e.whakaatuhia te Paepae&&!e.kitea?(e.kite=!0,setTimeout(mahi(){e.trigger(“显示”,hou r(“显示”,t))} ,15)):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=mahi( ){whakahoki t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=mahi(){return t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=mahi(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();return i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 { 完成：真 };返回 {完成： ，值：o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} throw new Type Error(“对不可迭代实例的迭代尝试无正井。 ，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalWhakaoti = pono, didErr = teka, he;whakahoki { s: mahi s() { it = o [Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next();normalCompletion = step.done;返回步骤；}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = pono;错误 = _e2;}, f: mahi f() { tamata { ki te (!NoraCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 { if (didErr) throw err;} } };} function _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) { if (! o) hoki;mehemea (momo o === “aho”) whakahoki _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).slice(8, -1);mena (n == = “对象” && o.kaihanga) n = o.kaihanga.ingoa;mena (n === “Mahere” ||n === “Tautuhi”) whakahokihia te Huanga.mai(o);mehemea (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped )?Huapapa$/.whakamatautau(n)) whakahoki _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { if (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;mo ( var i = 0, arr2 = hou Array(len);i
Wā tuku: Hanuere-19-2022