Mbiri yobwezeretsanso mafashoni: momwe mafashoni azaka za zana la 19 adasinthira, kukwezedwa ndikupitilira.

Chidutswachi chasinthidwa kuchokera ku Dressing Up: Women Influencing French Fashion (MIT Press), yomwe idasindikizidwa ndi MIT News Reader ndikusindikizidwanso apa ndi chilolezo.
Atsogoleri a mafashoni akupitilizabe kuyesetsa kwawo pambuyo poti COP26 idapempha dziko lonse kuti lichitepo kanthu pakusintha kwanyengo. zotsatira zake pa anthu ndi dziko lapansi pogwiritsa ntchito mphamvu zongowonjezwdwa ndi zinthu zongowonjezedwa mwamakhalidwe, pakati pa mazana azinthu zina zowonongeka. The Worn Wear Center ku Patagonia imatsogolera gulu lazovala zogulitsa koma zogwiritsidwabe ntchito. "Makampani ogulitsa ThredUp (omwe adakhazikitsidwa mu 2009), Poshmark (yomwe idakhazikitsidwa mu 2011) ndi The RealReal (yomwe idakhazikitsidwa mu 2011) .Zochita zolembedwa, onse atatu ali ndi kukula kwakukulu, koma osapindula kwambiri.
Panthawi imodzimodziyo, ofalitsa mafilimu, ndi WWD makamaka, akutsatira zachinyengo zomwe zimanenedwa ndi makampani apamwamba monga Coach of conscious actions omwe apezeka kuti awononga zikwama zambiri zopanda ungwiro m'malo mozikonza kapena kuzibwezeretsanso. Mtolankhani wa mafashoni Amy Odell, wolemba nkhani wodziyimira pawokha wa "Back Row", amayang'ana kwambiri zonena zabodza zamakampani. kwambiri, ngakhale posachedwapa adzayang'anizana ndi malamulo okhwima ku US" Iye adanena kuti "chaka chino FTC ikonzanso Malangizo ake 'obiriwira'," omwe cholinga chake ndi kuthandiza ochita malonda kuti asanene za chilengedwe zomwe zimasocheretsa ogula.
Popeza "kugula zinthu mwamtengo wapatali" komanso "kusankhika kwa zinthu" kukuchulukirachulukira, ino ndi nthawi yabwino yowona momwe machitidwewa amagwirizanirana ndi machitidwe am'mbuyomu. Félix ndi House of Worth) ndi makasitomala awo anzeru ochokera kumayiko ena? Kodi tingaphunzirepo chiyani kuchokera ku kudzipereka kwa zaka za m'ma 1800 pakugwiritsanso ntchito zinthu zatsopano komanso kukonza zinthu, kupitilira kuchuluka kwake?
Chakumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1800, mafashoni a ku France anali ogula kwambiri kwa akazi olemera a ku America. Azimayi omwe amawononga madola masauzande ambiri pa madiresi achi French amawonjezera ndalama zawo powabwezeretsanso - kuvala kangapo pa nyengo kapena zaka, mosiyana ndi amachita ndi zodzikongoletsera zawo zamtengo wapatali Palibe kusiyana.Amavala chovalacho mwa mawonekedwe ake oyambirira, amachikongoletsanso, kapena amabwereka wopanga choyambirira kapena wojambula m'deralo kuti akonzenso.Zochita izi zimasonyeza kutsindika kwa nsalu zapamwamba ndipo zimakhala zozama kwambiri. mu chikhalidwe chachifumu cha ku Ulaya.Monga wolemba mbiri komanso woyang'anira Kate Strastin akufotokozera Mkati mwa Royal Wardrobe: The Dress History of Queen Alexandra, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, anali ndi telala wake Lady Liz ndi kampani inasintha chovala chake chaukwati chopangidwa ku Britain kukhala chovala chamadzulo. Mu Marichi 1863, patatha masiku angapo atakwatirana ndi Edward VII.ore pa Waverley Ball ku London mu 1871. Chovalacho chili ndi chizindikiro cha Elise ndipo chikusungidwa lero mu Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection ku Kensington Palace.
Mary Endicott Chamberlain anavala diresi yotuwa ya silika ya House of Worth yokhala ndi zingwe, mikanda ndi velvet ku zochitika ziwiri za khothi ku London mu Marichi ndi Julayi 1893. Chochitika choyamba chinali cholandirira mu chipinda chojambula cha Mfumukazi Victoria ku Buckingham Palace, ndipo chachiwiri chinali ukwati wa a Duke ndi a Duchess aku York (pambuyo pake Mfumu George V ndi Mfumukazi Mary) .Iye ankakondanso kutumiza zobvala zake za Worth kubwerera ku nyumba ya mafashoni kuti asinthe, monga momwe ankachitira pamene ankafuna lace ya Van Dyke. kolala pa diresi yofiira ya satin.
Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 2000, akazi apamwamba ku America adatengera chitsanzo chachifumu chokonzanso zovala.Pamene Elizabeth Patterson wa ku Baltimore anakwatira Jerome Bonaparte mu 1803, adavala chovala choyera cha muslin, chomwe wakhala akuvala kangapo. , yomwe tsopano ili m'gulu la Chicago Historical Society, imasonyeza zizindikiro za kuvalanso.Anapita ku zochitika zambiri zamagulu ndi mwamuna wake, Miliyoneya Cyrus Hall McCormick, ndipo anavala chovala Chofunika Kwambiri paukwati wa mwana wake mu 1904.
Zovala zambiri zapamwamba zimakhala zolowa, zolembedwa muzofuna, ndiyeno zili kwa olowa nyumba kuti asankhe momwe angavalire, kapena popanda zosintha. M'mabuku ake, Alva Vanderbilt Belmont amakumbukira momwe iye ndi abale ake adayamikira kwambiri shawl ya ngamila. Alva ndi mwana wake wamkazi Consulo pambuyo pake anagwiritsa ntchito lace pa madiresi awo aukwati. Momwemonso, mu 1883, katswiri wa zachifundo Caroline Louisa Williams French wa ku Boston, Massachusetts, anagula chovala chabuluu chakuda. suti ya velvet yokhala ndi chinchilla fur trim ndi Maison Lipman label ya 1,600 francs. Mtunduwu, womwe umayendetsedwa ndi Madame Camille Lipman, udayenda ku Paris m'ma 1880, ndipo makasitomala ake anali Maria Pia, Mfumukazi ya ku Portugal. Zaka 37 pambuyo pake, Alice Williams Pearse , mbadwa ya French, akujambulidwa mu thumba ndi chinchilla thumba, popanda malaya, pa chochitika kukondwerera Nineth Amendment, amene Kusintha kunapatsa akazi ufulu kuvota.Zovala ndi zithunzi tsopano ali mu H.istoric New England. Orme Wilson Jr. ndi Richard Thornton Wilson III apereka mikanjo ku Metropolitan Museum of Art by Houses of Worth, Doucet, and Paquin, kuperekanso chithunzithunzi cha momwe couture wakulira kudzera mu nthambi ya banja limodzi Feel. .Abale a Wilson ndi ana a William Buckhouse Astor Jr. ndi mwana wamkazi wa Caroline Astor Carrie.
Pazochitika monga Mpira wa Centennial womwe unachitika m'dziko lonselo mu 1876, akazi adapatsa mikanjo yomwe imatengera zomwe makolo awo amavala pazithunzi ndi zithunzi. Azimayi ena ankagwiritsa ntchito zidutswa zamagulu awo akale a lace pazochitika zosiyanasiyana, monga momwe Astors anachitira, omwe anasonkhanitsa zingwe za Flemish ndi French za m'zaka za m'ma 1800, zina zomwe zinapulumuka. 1878, Caroline Astor monyadira adavala chovala chakuda cha velvet chokhala ndi tinthu tating'ono ta zaka 200.
Njira ina yogwiritsiranso ntchito ndi zinyalala zochokera kwa eni ake kupita kwa atsikana kapena olandira chithandizo. Caroline Astor anapereka zovala ku chipatala cha amayi, pamene Cornelia Stewart, yemwe adakwatiwa ndi wogulitsa AT Stewart, akuti adapereka zovala zake kwa mkazi wina monga Diana de Marley (mlembi wa "History of Haute Couture") ndi Kate Strastin asonyezera, mchitidwewu unali wopangidwa ndi mchitidwe wachifumu wa ku Ulaya wopereka chovalacho kwa adzakazi, Mfumukazi Victoria ndi Alex Momwemonso anachitira Mfumukazi. Sandra.Wales.Kuyenda kwina ndikugulitsa madiresi kwa ogulitsa zida zachikale, mbadwa za malonda opangidwa kale ku Europe a zovala zakale.Ku Paris, malondawa akhalapo kuyambira m'zaka za zana la 13, ndipo pofika m'zaka za zana la 18 anali atazungulira Les Halles. .M’zaka za m’ma 1800, anthu a m’banja lachifumu ankagulitsa kwa ogulitsa zovala.
Kuyambira kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1800, England ilinso ndi mbiri yogulitsa zovala zachifumu ndi zolemekezeka pakusinthana kwa zovala zakale ku East London, monga momwe Jennifer Le Zotte akufotokozera m'buku lake From Goodwill to Grunge. malonda a manja ku Lower East Side analimbikitsidwa ndi kufika kwa anthu ambiri obwera ku Ulaya posachedwapa pakati pa 1880 ndi 1920, omwe amayendetsedwa makamaka ndi Ayuda omwe ali ndi luso logulitsa ndi kusoka. monga ochita malonda akuwoneka kuti amaletsedwa nthawi zonse kugula zovala mu malonda a zachifundo.Kudana ndi Ayuda kunayamba kugwiritsidwa ntchito pano chifukwa Ayuda ankawoneka kuti ndi omwe amalamulira malonda, omwe adapangidwa chifukwa cha kufunikira pamene adaletsedwa ku ntchito zawo ndikutembenukira ku ngolo yoyendera alendo. malonda.
Woimba wa opera Emma Abbott atamwalira mu 1891, wochita masewero Jeanne Kimball adagula chovala cha Worth ndi Félix chomwe Abbott ankavala ku Carmen zaka zingapo m'mbuyomo. Kimball adagulira mwana wake wamkazi Corinne. pamene Elena wa ku Montenegro sanathe kugwiritsa ntchito mikanjo yatsopano ya Félix kwa nthawi yolira mfumu ya ku Italy Umberto Woyamba kuphedwa ndi anarchists, couturier poyamba anawaika pa Universal Exhibition ku Paris Pa chiwonetsero cha 1900. chiwonetserocho, Francesca Redding adasilira chovala chobiriwira cha silika ndi chiffon chopindika ndi masamba, adachigula, ndikuchiyika mwachangu pa siteji.Zovala za Katswiri wa zamagulu a Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette, zomwe zidatsatiridwa mosamalitsa m'ma invoice omwe adalipo kale, akuti zidagulitsidwa ku New York. kasitomala wa zisudzo Eves atamwalira ndipo anali atavala ndi zisudzo angapo, malinga ndi malipoti..Potsirizira pake, wojambula Sadie Martinot adagulitsa zovala zake za Worth ndi Félix pogulitsira malonda mu May 1894 kwa $35,000 (kuposa $ 1.1 miliyoni lero) .Ochita masewerawa adagulitsanso madiresi awo a siteji kwa ogulitsa katundu omwe analipo kale, monga The Sun adawafotokozera. mu 1892, "ndi masiketi, masiketi, ndi zovala za Basque zidapachika nsanjika zitatu kapena zinayi kuya".
Ogula m'masitolo ogulitsa zinthu zakale ndi amayi apakati omwe zovala zawo zidzakhala zaka zambiri. Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh wa ku Illinois zikalata mu magazini yake ndi nsalu scrapbooks wake madiresi ndi masuti iye akanatha kukonzanso kapena "anang'amba" kwa zaka zambiri, kuphatikizapo amene ankavala. pa World Columbia Show ku Chicago Suits, makamaka, adachita chochitikacho panthawi yavuto lazachuma la 1893. Pokonzekera bwino ndi kukonza, zovala zimatha kusungidwa ndi kuvala nthawi zambiri. zovala zamkati zosanjikiza zimakhala ngati chotchinga pakati pa mafuta amthupi ndi dothi komanso kuchuluka kwa chovalacho.
Mchitidwe wopeza zomwe mukufuna ndikuzibwezeretsanso, kuzizungulira ndikusinthana zapangitsa kuti mafashoni aku France agawidwe kwambiri m'magulu osiyanasiyana padziko lonse lapansi.Monga momwe Strastin akunenera, chovala cha Mfumukazi Alexandra chinagulitsidwa ndi American Art Association ndi Anderson Art Gallery mu 1937. , ndipo gawo limodzi mwa magawo anayi anayi linagulidwa ndi Erin Lewison ndi kugulitsidwa ku Metropolitan Museum of Art Sukulu ya Zovala inakhazikitsidwa.
Ngakhale kuti zipangizozi zili ndi chidziwitso chochepa cha chikhalidwe cha anthu masiku ano - ubweya, nthenga za mbalame zomwe zimasowa kwambiri, ndipo ngakhale zisoti zokhala ndi taxidermy critters ndizofunikira - tikhoza kuyamikira chinachake chomwe chilipo panthawiyi, zovomerezeka zogwiritsanso ntchito, ndi zomwe tsopano timazitcha upcycling. kukongola kwa mafashoni a ku France omwe adagula, amayi a ku America adabweretsa pragmatism inayake kumsika.ThredUp, Poshmark ndi The RealReal amaika patsogolo cholinga, kukulitsa dala moyo wa zovala ngati njira yabwino yogula komanso kutali ndi kusalana kulikonse komwe kungatheke. chakumapeto kwa zaka za zana la khumi ndi chisanu ndi chinayi, m’mabwalo apamwamba kwambiri a anthu, panalibe kanthu kochotsa kusalana.
Kuti abwereke nthawi ya kampani yophunzitsa mafashoni a Motif, amayi a ku America omwe adagula mafashoni a ku France kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1900 adayambitsa "chitsanzo chozungulira chomwe chovalacho chinapangidwira ndi kupangidwa ndikugwiritsanso ntchito m'maganizo". .
“));var p=b(h[i.size_id].split(“x”).mapu(ntchito(e){kubweza Nambala(e)}),2);f.width=p[0], f.height=p[1]}f.rubiconTargeting=(Array.isArray(i.targeting)?i.targeting:[]).reduce(function(e,t){return e[t.key]=t. values[0],e},{rpfl_elemid:l.adUnitCode}),t.push(f)}else Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon:bidRequest 在索引位置未定义:”.concat(o),n , e); bwererani t},[]).sort(function(e,t){return(t.cpm||0)-(e.cpm||0)})},getUserSyncs:function(e,t , n,r){if(!U&&e.iframeEnabled){var i=”";return n&&”string”==typeof n.consentString&&(“boolean”==typeof n.gdprApplies?i+=”?gdpr=”. concat (数字(n.gdprApplies),”&gdpr_consent=”).concat(n.consentString):i+=”?gdpr_consent=”.concat(n.consentString)),r&&(i+=”".concat(i?" & “:”?”,”us_privacy=”).concat(encodeURIComponent(r))),U=!0,{mtundu:”iframe”,url:”https://”.concat(y.syncHost|| ” eus”,”.rubiconproject.com/usync.html”)+i}}},transformBidParams:function(e,t){return Object(r.convertTypes)({accountId:”nambala”,siteId:”nambala” , zoneId:"nambala"}, e)}}; 函数_(e,t){var n=obgetConfig(“pageUrl”); bwererani e.params.referrer?n=e.params.referrer:n||(n=t.refererInfo.referer),e.params.secure?n.replace(/^http:/ i,"https:”):n } 函数 j(e){var t,n=document.getElementById(e.adUnitCode);(t=n.querySelector(“div[id^='google_ads']“)) &&t.style.setProperty(“display” ,”palibe”),function(e){var t=e.querySelector(“script[id^='sas_script']“),n=t&&t.nextSibling;n&&”iframe” ===n.localName&&n.style. setProperty(“chiwonetsero”,”palibe”)}(n);var r=e.renderer.getConfig();e.renderer.push(ntchito(){window.MagniteApex.renderAd ({m'lifupi:e.width,utali), :e.height,vastUrl:e.vastUrl,kuyika:{attachTo:”#”.concat(e.adUnitCode),align:r.align||”center”,position:r .position||”append”}, closeButton:r.closeButton||!1,label:r.label||void 0,collapse:r.collapse||!0})})}函数S(e,t) {var n=e.params;if (“kanema”===t){var i=[];bweza n.video&&n.video.playerWidth&n.video.playerHeight?i=[n.video.playerWidth,n.video .playerHeight]:Array.isArray(Object (r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.video.playerSize”))&&1===e.mediaTypes.video.playerSize.length?i=e.mediaTypes.video.playerSize[0]:Array.isArray(e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0&&Array.isArray(e.sizes[0])&&e.sizes[0].utali >1&&(i=e.sizes[ 0]),i}var o=[];return Array.isArray(n.sizes)?o=n.sizes:void 0!==Object(r.deepAccess)(e ,”mediaTypes.banner.sizes”) ?o=A(e.mediaTypes.banner.sizes):Array.isArray(e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0?o=A(e.sizes):Object(r.logWarn)(“Rubicon: 没有设置或找到大小”),w(o)}ntchito E(e,t,n){var i={user:{ext:{data:f({},e .params.visitor)}},malo: {ext:{data:f({},e.params.inventory)}}};e.params.keywords&&(i.site.keywords=Object(r.isArray)( e.params.keywords)?e.params .keywords.join(“,”):e.params.keywords);var c=Object(r.mergeDeep)({},obgetConfig(“ortb2″)||{} ,i),s=Object(r. deepAccess)(e.ortb2Imp,"ext.data”)||{},u={user:[4],site:[1,2,5,6]}, d={user:"tg_v.", site:”tg_i.”,adserver:”tg_i.dfp_ad_unit_code”,pbadslot:”tg_i.pbadslot”,mawu ofunika kwambiri:”kw”},l=function(e,t,n) {if(“data”===t&&Array .isArray(e))return e.filter(function(e){return e.segment&&Object(r.deepAccess)(e,"ext.segtax")&&u[n]&&-1!==u[n].indexOf (Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”ext.segtax”)}}).mapu(ntchito(e){var t =e.segment.filter(function(e){return e.id}).reduce(function(ntchito) (e,t){bwererani e.push(t.id),e},[]);ngati(t.length >0)bwererani t.toString()}).toString();ngati("chinthu"! ==v(e)||Array.isArray(e)){if(zopanda 0!==e) bweretsani Gulu.isArray(e)?e.filter(function(e){if(“object”!==v(e)&&void 0!==e)return e.toString();Object(r.logWarn)(“Rubicon:过滤值:”,e,”kwa kiyi”,t,”:期望值為字符串、整数或字符串/整数数组”)}).toString():e.toString()}else Object()} ("Rubicon: Filtered FPD key: ",t,": Mtengo woyembekezereka kukhala chingwe, chiwerengero, kapena mndandanda wa zingwe / ints")},p=function(e,t,r){var i= !(mikangano .utali>3&&void 0!==mikangano[3])||mikangano[3],o=l(e,r,t),a=d[r]&&i?”".concat(d[r ]): ”data”===r?”.concat(d[t],”iab”):”".concat(d[t]).concat(r);n[a]=n[a]?n [a].concat(“,”,o):o};Object.keys(ma).forEach(ntchito(e){“adserver”===e?["dzina","adslot"] .forEach(函数(t){s[e][t]&&(s[e][t]=s[e][t].toString().replace(/^\/+/,""))}): ”pbadslot”===e&&(s[e]=s[e].toString().replace(/^\/+/ ,”"))}),t===ab?(["site", "wosuta"].forEach(function(e){Object.keys(c[e]).forEach(function(t){“网站”===e&&”内容”===t&&c[e][t]. deta?p(c[e][t].data,e,"data”):"ext"!==t?p (c[e][t],e,t):c[e][t ].data&&Object.keys(c[e].ext.data).forEach(function(t){p(c[e]. ext.data[t],e,t,!1)})})}) ,Object.makiyi (ma).forEach(ntchito(e){“adserver”===e?p(s[e].adslot,name,e):p(s[e],"site",e)})):(Object.keys(s).length&&Object(r.mergeDeep)(n.imp[0].ext,{data :s}),Object(r.mergeDeep)(n,c))}ntchito A(e){return Object(r.parseSizesInput)(e).reduce(function(e,t){var n=parseInt(h) [t],10); bwezerani n&&e.push(n),e},[])}函数I(e){return”object”===v(Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”params.video "))&&void 0!==Chinthu(r.deepAccess)(e,"mediaTypes.".concat(ad))}函数 T(e){var t=arguments.length>1&&void 0!==makangano[1] &&arguments[1];kubwezerani I(e)?-1===["outstream","instream"].indexOf(Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.”.concat(ad,”.context” )))?void(t&&Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.context 必须是外流或内流”)):S(e,”kanema”).utali-1||i>-1? -1===r?1:-1 ===i?-1:ri:en})}函数x(e){var t=parseInt(Object(r.deepAccess)(e,"params.video. size_id”));返回isNaN(t)?“outstream”===Chinthu(r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.”.concat(ad,”.context”))?203:201:t}ntchito D(e){kubwerera{renji:{otsika: [{max:5,increment:.5}],zapakati:[{max:20,increment:.1}],high:[{max:20,increment:.01}],auto:[{max:5] ,increment:.05},{min:5,max:10,increment:.1},{min:10,max:20,increment:.5}],dense:[{max:3,increment:.01 },{min:3,max:8,increment:.05},{min:8,max:20,increment:.5}],custom:e.getConfig(“customPriceBucket”)&e.getConfig(“customPriceBucket” ).buckets[e.getConfig("priceGranularity")]}}ntchito R(e){var t=!0,n=Object.prototype.toString.call([]),i={mimes:n,protocols :n, mzere:Object.prototype.toString.call(0),api:n};返回 Object.keys(i).forEach(function(n){Object.prototype.toString.call(Object(r.deepAccess) (e,”mediaTypes.video.”+n))!==i[n]&&(t=!1,Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.”+n+” 是必需的,并且必须是类型:”+i[n]))}),t}ntchito k(e){var t=!1,n=["asi", "sid","hp"];return e.nodes? ((t=e.nodes.reduce(function(e,t){return e?n.every(function(e){return t.hasOwnProperty(e) }):e},!0))||Object(r.logError)("Rubicon: ma param ofunikira akusowa"),t):t}ntchito P(e,t){kubwerera"rp_schain"===e ?"rp_schain=".concat(t):" ".concat(e,"=”).concat(encodeURIComponent(t))}var U=!1;Object(i.registerBidder)(O)}},[787]),pbjsChunk([107],{875 :ntchito(e,t,n){e.exports=n(876)},876:function(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,"__esModule",{value:!0}),ndi (t,”tripleliftAdapterSpec”,function(){return m});var r=n(0),i=n(2),o=n(1), a=n(3);function c(){ return(c=Object.assign||function(e){for(var t=1;te.length)&&(t=e.length);kwa(var n =0,r=new Array(t);n0&& (t.user={ext:{eids:o}});var s=function(e,t){var n={};return Object(r.isEmpty )(e)||(n.schain=d ({},e)),Object(r.isEmpty)(t)||(n.fpd=d({},t)),n}(n, i); bwezerani Chinthu(r.isEmpty)(s )||(t.ext=s),t}(e); ngati(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”lib”,”prebid”),n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n, ”v”,”6.2.0″),t&&t.refererInfo){var o=t.refererInfo.referer;n=Chinthu(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”referrer”,o)}bwererani t&&t.timeout&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”tmax”,t.timeout)),t&&t.gdprConsent&&(void 0) !==t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies&&(b=t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”gdpr”,b.toString())),void 0!==t.gdprConsent&consent. (g=t.gdprConsent.consentString,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”cmp_cs”,g))),t&&t.uspConsent&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”us_privacy”,t. uspConsent)),!0===abgetConfig(“coppa”)&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”coppa”,!0)),n.lastIndexOf(“&”)===n.length-1&&(n=n.substring(0,n.length-1)),Object(r.logMessage)(“tlCall pempho lamangidwa: “+n),{njira:”POST”,url:n,data: i,bidderRequest:t}},interpretResponse:function(e,t){var n=t.bidderRequest;return(e.body.bids||[]).map(function(e){return function(e,t) ){var n={},r=t.width||1,i=t.height||1,o=t.deal_id||”",a=t.crid||”",c=e. malonda[t.imp_id];bweza 0!=t.cpm&&t.ad&(n={requestId:c.bidId,cpm:t.cpm,width:r,height:i,netRevenue:!0, ad:t.ad ,creativeId:a,dealId:o,ndalama:”USD”,ttl:300,tl_source:t.tl_source,meta:{}},v(c)&&(n.vastXml=t.ad, n.mediaType=” kanema”,n.ttl=3600),t.advertiser_name&&(n.meta.advertiserName=t.advertiser_name),t.adomain&&t.adomain.length&&(n.meta.advertiserDomains=t.adomain),t .tl_source&&”hdx” ==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”banner”),t.tl_source&&”tlx”==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”native”)),n}(n,e)}) },getUserSyncs:function(e,t,n,i){var o=function(e){if(e)kubweza e.iframeEnabled?”iframe”:e.pixelEnabled?”chithunzi”:zopanda 0}(e) ;ngati(o){var a=”https://eb2.3lift.com/sync?”;return”chithunzi”===o&&(a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a, px”,1),a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,"src”,"prebid”)),null!==g&&(a =Chinthu(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”gdpr”,b) ,a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”cmp_cs”,g)),i&&(a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,” us_zinsinsi”,i)),[{type:o,url:a }]}}}};ntchito v(e){return!!e.mediaTypes.video&&!!e.mediaTypes.video.context&&”instream”== =e.mediaTypes.video.context.toLowerCase()}ntchito y(e){var t=null;if(“function”==typeof e.getFloor ){var n=e.getFloor({ndalama:”USD” ,mediaType:v(e)?”kanema”:”banner”,size:”*”});”chinthu”!==s(n)||”USD”!==n.currency||isNaN(parseFloat(n.floor))||(t=parseFloat(n.floor))}bwererani null!==t?t:e.params.floor}函数h(e,t){Object(r.isEmpty)(t)||Object.keys(t).forEach(function(n){null!=t[n]&&(e[n]=t[n] )})} 函数O(e,t,n,r){bwererani e.map(function(e){return function(t){return t&&t.userId&&t.userId[e]}}(t)).sefa( _(t)).map(function(e,t){return function(n){return{source:e,uids:[{id:n.id?n.id:n,ext:{rtiPartner:t} }]}}}(n,r))}var _=function(e){返回函数(t,n,i){var o=!!t&&(Object(r.isStr)(t)?!!t :Object(r.isPlainObject)(t)&&!Object(r.isArray)(t)&&!Object(r.isEmpty)(t)&t.id&&Object(r.isStr)(t.id)&&!!t. id); bwezerani o|| void 0===i[0]||Chinthu(r.logWarn)(“Triplelift: chosalondola “.concat(e,” mtundu wa userId”)),o}};ntchito j(e ){bwererani e.filter(S).map(function(e){re转{w:e[0],h:e[1]}})}函数S(e){bwererani 2===e. length&&”number”==typeof e[0]&&”number”==typeof e[1]}Chinthu(o.registerBidder)(m)}},[875]),pbjsChunk([11],{15:function (e,t,n){tb=function(e){var t= [];kwa(var n in e)if(e.hasOwnProperty(n))if(“pubProvidedId”===n)t=t .concpa(e.pubProvidedId); kwina{var r=o(e[n],n);r&t.push(r)}bwererani t},ta=function(e){var t=[];bwererani e.sefa (ntchito(e){return Object(r.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).forEach(function(e){Object.keys(e.idObj).forEach(function) (n) {Object(r.deepAccess)(e,"config.bidders ")&&Array.isArray(e.config.bidders)&&Object(r.deepAccess)(i,n+".gwero")&&t.push({gwero) :i[n].source,bidders:e.config.bidders})})}),t};var r=n(0),i={intentIqId:{gwero:”intentiq.com”,atype:1 },naveggId:{gwero:”navegg.com”,atype:1} ,pubcid:{gwero:”pubcid.org”,atype:1},tdid:{gwero:”adserver.org”,atype:1,getUidExt :function(){kubwerera{rtiPartner:”TDID”}}},id5id :{getValue:function(e){return e.uid},gwero:”id5-sync.com”,atype:1,getUidExt:function( e){if(e.ext)bwererani e.ext}},parrableId:{gwero:”parrable.com”,atype:1,getValue:function(e){kubweza ?”" :null},getUidExt:function(e){var t=Object(r.pick)(e,["ibaOptout","ccpaOptout"]);if(Object.keys(t).utali)kubweza t }}, idl_env:{gwero:”chiwindiamp.com”,atype:3},lipb:{getValue:function(e){return e.lipbid},gwero:”liveintent.com”,atype:3,getEidExt:function(e) {if(Array.isArray (e.segments)&&e.segments.length)kubwerera{segments:e.segments}}},britepoolid:{gwero:”britepool.com”,atype:3},dmdId:{gwero:”hcn.health”,atype: :3},lotamePanoramaId:{gwero:”crwdcntrl.net”,atype:1},criteoId:{gwero:”criteo.com”,atype:1},merkleId:{gwero:”merkleinc.com”,atype:3,getValue:function(e){return e.id},getUidExt:function(e){return e&&e.keyID?{keyID:e.keyID}:void 0}},netId:{gwero: “netid.de”,atype:1},IDP:{gwero:”zeotap.com”,atype:1},haloId:{gwero:”audigent.com”,atype:1},quantcastId:{source:”quantcast .com”,atype:1},nextrolId:{gwero:”nextrol.com”,atype:1},idx:{gwero:”idx.lat”,atype:1},connectid:{來源:"verizonmedia.com ”,atype:3},fabrickId:{來源:“neustar.biz”,atype:1},mwOpenLinkId:{來源:“mediawallahscript.com”,atype:1},tapadId:{來源:“tapad.com”, atype:1},novatiq:{getValue:function(e){return e.snowflake},source:”novatiq.com”,atype:1},uid2:{gwero:”uidapi.com” ,atype:3,getValue :function(e){return e.id}},dapId:{gwero:”akamai.com”,atype:1},deepintentId:{gwero:”deepintent.com”,atype:3} ,admixerId:{gwero: ”admixer.net”,atype:3},adtelligentId:{gwero:”adtelligent.com”,atype:3},amxId:{gwero:”amxrtb.com”,atype:1},publinkId :{gwero:”epsilon .com”,atype:3},kpuid:{gwero:”kpuid.com”,atype:3},imuid:{gwero:”intimatemerger.com”,atype:1},connectId:{來源:”yahoo.com”,atype:3}};函数o(e,t){var n=i[t];if(n&&e){var o={};o.source=n.source;var a=Object (r.isFn)(n.getValue)?n.getValue(e):e;if(Object(r.isStr)(a)){var c={id:a,atype:n.atype} ;ngati( Chinthu(r.isFn)(n.getUidExt)){var s=n.getUidExt(e);s&&(c.ext=s)}ngati(o.uids=[c],Chinthu(r.isFn )(n .getEidExt)){var u=n.getEidExt(e);u&&(o.ext=u)}返回o}}bwererani null}},897:function(e,t,n){e.exports=n( 898)},898:ntchito(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,”__esModule”,{value: !0}),ndi(t,”PBJS_USER_ID_OPTOUT_NAME”,function(){kubweza w}), nd(t,”coreStorage”,function(){return x}),nd(t,”syncDelay”,function() {return _}),nd(t,”auctionDelay”,function(){return j}) ,t.setSubmoduleRegistry=function(e){U=e},t.setStoredValue=B,t.setStoredConsentData=L,t .findRootDomain=V,t.requestBidsHook=K,nd(t,"validateGdprEnforcement",function() {kubwerera Y}),t.attachIdSystem=te,t.init=ne;var r=n(11),i= nn(r),o=n(3),a=n(10),c=nn (a),s=n(14),u=n(8),d=n(5),l=nn (d),f=n(9),p=n(15),b=n( 7),g=n(0),m=n(12),v=nn(m); 函数y(e ,t){(null==t||t>e.length)&&(t=e .utali);kwa(var n=0,r=New Array(t);n1&&void 0!==参数[1] ?mikangano[1]:void 0,r=n?”".concat(e.name,"_”). concat(n):e.name; yesani{if(e.type===A)t= x.getCookie(r); pena ngati(e.type===I){var i=x.getDataFromLocalStorage(“ ”.concat(e.name,”_exp”));”"===i?t= x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r):i&&new Date(i).getTime()-Date.now()>0&&(t= decodeURIComponent(x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r)))}”string”==typeof t&&”{“===t.trim().charAt(0)&&(t=JSON.parse(t))}catch(e) {Object(g.logError)(e)}bwererani t}function q(e){var t={consentString:"",gdprApplies:!1,apiVersion:0};return e&&(t.consentString=e.consentString, t .gdprApplies=e.gdprApplies,t.apiVersion=e.apiVersion),Object(g.cyrb53Hash)(JSON.stringify(t))}函数L(e){try{var t=new Date(Date.now( ) +864e5*C).toUTCString();x.setCookie(T,q(e),t,”Lax”)}gwira(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数F(){试{kubwerera x.getCookie(T)}catch(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数z(e){if(e&&”boolean”==typeof e.gdprApplies&&e.gdprApplies){if (!e.consentString)kubweza!1;ngati(1===e.apiVersion&&!1===Chinthu(g.deepAccess)(e,"vendorData. purposeConsents.1″)) kubwerera!1;ngati(2=== e.apiVersion&&!1===Object(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData.purpose.consents.1″))return!1}bwererani!0}function V(){var e=arguments.length>0&&void 0 !==mikangano[0]?mikangano[0]:window.location.hostname;ngati(!x.cookiesAreEnabled()) bweretsani e;var t,n,r=e.split(“.”);ngati(2 ==r.utali)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Date.now()),a=”cholembedwa”;chita{t=r.slice(i).join( ".");var c =new Date(Object(g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,"Lax",t,void 0),x.getCookie (o,palibe 0)= ==a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,”",Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:01 GMT”,chopanda 0,t,chopanda 0)): (i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=function(){r||(r=!0,e())};Chinthu (g.logInfo)(” “.concat(E,” – 拍卖延迟 “).concat(j,” 最多获取 ids”)),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)}ena caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END , 函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(function(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&&e() }函数 K(e,t){H(ntchito(){!function(e,t){[e].some(ntchito(e){bwerera!Array.isArray(e)||!e.length})||e.forEach(function(e){e.bids&&Object(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(function(e){var n=function(e,t){return Array.isArray(e)&&e.长度&&t?e.sefa(function(e){return!e.config.bidders||!Object(g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)} .sefa(ntchito(e){return Object(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).reduce(function(e,t){return Object.keys(t. idObj).forEach(function(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n]}),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.keys(n).utali&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Object(pb)(n))})})}(t.adUnits||Object(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]).pezani(function(e){return e.source===S });if(n&&”string”==typeof Object(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”) ){var r=n.uids[0].id.replace(/[\W_] /g,"");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.length?{ndachita:!0}:{ndachita :!1,value:e[r++]}},e:function(e){throw e},f:i}}ponyani TypeError yatsopano(“Invalid尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n为了可迭代,非数组凯数组容必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o ,a=!0,c=!1;kubwerera{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function( ){var e=n.next(); bwezerani a=e.done ,e},e:function(e){c=!0,o=e},f:function(){try{a||null==n.return||n.return()}最后{if(c)ponya o}}}}(i );yesa{kwa(ss();!(a=sn()).dachita;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1=== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name) ||(Chinthu(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,” – 刷新”).concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.length&&N(h),Object(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.push(d))}} gwira(e){se(e)}pomaliza{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c ),t&&t()}else Object(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 cookie,退出模块”))})}var Y=Object(fb)(“ ”,function(e,t){return{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&&t.hasValidated}},”validateGdprEnforcement” );函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;ngati(“nambala”==typeof e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=new Date(M(e.config.storage,” last”));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!function(e,t){return null! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”function”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”function”==typeof i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))}mwina ngati(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;else{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,void 0);Chinthu( g.isPlainObject)&&("ntchito"==typeof s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) ))}} 函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.preload&&e.preloadThreshold&&function(e,t,n) ,i){return t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(function(){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t))} ,15)):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=function( ){return t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=function(){return t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=function(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();return i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 {完成:真}; 返回 {: , 值:o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} throw new TypeError(“对不可迭代实例的迣代尝了试无效。\n为可迭代实例的迣代尝试无效. ,非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalCompletion = zoona, didErr = zabodza, err; bwererani {s: ntchito s() {it = o[Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next(); NormalCompletion = sitepe.done; 返回步骤;}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = zoona; 错误 = _e2;}, f: ntchito f() {yesani {ngati (!normalCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 {ngati (didErr) kutaya zolakwika;} }}};} ntchito _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) {ngati (! o) kubwerera; ngati (mtundu wa o === “chingwe”) bweretsani _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).gawo(8, -1); ngati (n == = “对象” && o.constructor) n = o.constructor.name;ngati (n === “Mapu” ||n === “Set”) bweretsani Array.from(o); ngati (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped )?Array$/.test(n)) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { if (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;kwa ( var i = 0, arr2 = new Array(len); i


Nthawi yotumiza: Jan-19-2022