Nkan yii jẹ adaṣe lati Wíwọ: Awọn obinrin ti o ni ipa lori Njagun Faranse (MIT Press), ni akọkọ ti a tẹjade nipasẹ MIT News Reader ati tun ṣe atẹjade nibi pẹlu igbanilaaye.
Awọn oludari njagun n tẹsiwaju lati ṣe igbesẹ awọn akitiyan wọn lẹhin ti COP26 fi taratara pe agbaye lati ṣe igbese lori iyipada oju-ọjọ. Chloé di ami iyasọtọ igbadun akọkọ lati ṣaṣeyọri “ipo B Corporation” ti o ṣojukokoro ati ni bayi o lo ami ti ifọwọsi, ti n ṣe afihan ifaramo rẹ lati dinku awọn oniwe-ikolu lori eniyan ati awọn aye nipasẹ awọn lilo ti sọdọtun agbara ati ethically sourced ohun elo, laarin ogogorun ti awọn miiran Atinuda s bibajẹ.The Worn Wear Center ni Patagonia nyorisi awọn isowo-ni sugbon si tun nkan elo aṣọ ẹka.It aligns pẹlu dagba "lodidi tio " Thrift ilé ThredUp (ti a da ni 2009), Poshmark (ti a da ni 2011) ati The RealReal (ti a da ni 2011) . Awọn iṣowo ti a ṣe akojọ, gbogbo awọn mẹta ni idagbasoke giga, ṣugbọn kii ṣe anfani ti o ga julọ.
Ni akoko kanna, awọn media njagun, ati WWD ni pataki, n ṣe atẹle awọn iṣeduro arekereke nipasẹ awọn ami iyasọtọ igbadun bii Olukọni ti awọn iṣe ti o jẹ mimọ ti a ti rii lati run ọpọlọpọ awọn apo apamọwọ aipe dipo ti atunṣe tabi tun wọn pada.Awọn oludasiṣẹ awujọ awujọ ni gbangba itiju wọn, nigba ti awọn adarọ-ese ṣe iwọn awọn ami-ami-ami-ami ati padanu. Onirohin njagun Amy Odell, onkọwe ti iwe iroyin ti ominira “Back Row” ti ominira, fojusi lori awọn ẹtọ ile-iṣẹ eke.Ninu awọn asọtẹlẹ rẹ fun 2022: “Awọn ẹtọ Bullshit 'sustainability' yoo tẹsiwaju lati mu. isẹ, biotilejepe won yoo laipe koju tougher ilana ni US" O woye wipe "ni odun yi FTC yoo tun awọn oniwe-'alawọ ewe' Awọn ilana,"Eyi ti ni ero lati ran ataja yago fun ṣiṣe awọn ẹtọ ayika ti o ṣi awọn onibara."
Pẹlu “itaja ti o da lori iye” ati “iduroṣinṣin ti yiyan ọja” ni igbega, bayi jẹ akoko ti o yẹ lati rii bi awọn iṣe wọnyi ṣe ṣe atunṣe pẹlu awọn iṣe ti o kọja. Bawo ni awọn apẹẹrẹ ati awọn igbiyanju lọwọlọwọ ti awọn ti onra ṣe akopọ lodi si awọn baba aṣa wọn (bii Maison Félix ati Ile ti Worth) ati awọn alabara agbaye ti oye wọn?Kini a le kọ lati ifaramo orundun 19th si ilotunlo ati igbega, didara lori opoiye?
Ni opin ọrundun 19th, aṣa Faranse jẹ rira igbadun ti o ga julọ fun awọn obinrin Amẹrika ọlọrọ. Awọn obinrin ti o lo ẹgbẹẹgbẹrun dọla lori awọn aṣọ Faranse mu iwọn idoko-owo wọn pọ si nipa sisọ wọn pada - wọ wọn ni igba pupọ ni akoko awọn akoko tabi awọn ọdun, ni idakeji si kini kini Wọn ṣe pẹlu awọn ohun-ọṣọ ti o niyelori julọ Ko si iyatọ.Wọn boya wọ aṣọ naa ni fọọmu atilẹba rẹ, tun gbe e soke, tabi bẹwẹ olupese atilẹba tabi alaṣọ agbegbe lati ṣe atunṣe rẹ. Awọn iṣe wọnyi ṣe afihan tcnu lori awọn aṣọ-ọṣọ igbadun ati pe o ni fidimule jinna. ni aṣa ọba ti Yuroopu.Gẹgẹbi akoitan ati olutọju Kate Strastin ṣe apejuwe ninu Inu Ile-iṣọ Royal: Itan Aṣọ ti Queen Alexandra, Alexandra, Ọmọ-binrin ọba Wales, ni iyasilẹ rẹ Lady Liz ati ile-iṣẹ ti yi imura igbeyawo ti Ilu Gẹẹsi ṣe sinu ẹwu aṣalẹ. Ni Oṣu Kẹta ọdun 1863, awọn ọjọ diẹ lẹhin igbeyawo rẹ pẹlu Edward VII.Strastin sọ fun wa pe fun 1874 Marlborough Ball, Ile-iṣẹ Elise dabi pe o ti ṣe atunṣe aṣọ Alexandra w.ore ni Ball Waverley ni Ilu Lọndọnu ni ọdun 1871. Aṣọ naa ni aami Elise ati pe o wa ni ipamọ loni ni Gbigba Aṣọ Aṣọ Royal ni Aafin Kensington.
Mary Endicott Chamberlain wọ aṣọ siliki buluu ti o ni awọ kanna ti Ile ti Worth pẹlu lace, beading ati felifeti si awọn iṣẹlẹ ile-ẹjọ ọtọtọ meji ni Ilu Lọndọnu ni Oṣu Kẹta ati Keje 1893. Iṣẹlẹ akọkọ jẹ gbigba ni yara iyaworan ti Queen Victoria ni Buckingham Palace, ati awọn keji ni igbeyawo ti Duke ati Duchess ti York (nigbamii King George V ati Queen Mary) .O tun lo lati fi awọn ẹwu rẹ Worth pada si ile aṣa fun atunṣe, bi o ti ṣe nigbati o fẹ lace Van Dyke. kola lori aṣọ satin pupa kan.
Ni ibẹrẹ ọdun 2000, awọn obirin ti o ga julọ ni Amẹrika gba ilana ọba fun atunṣe aṣọ.Nigbati Elizabeth Patterson ti Baltimore ṣe igbeyawo Jerome Bonaparte ni 1803, o wọ aṣọ muslin funfun ti a fi ọṣọ, ti o ti wọ ni ọpọlọpọ igba niwon Nancy Fowler McCormick's French imura. , ni bayi ni gbigba ti Chicago Historical Society, fihan awọn ami ti a tun wọ. O lọ si ọpọlọpọ awọn iṣẹlẹ awujọ pẹlu ọkọ rẹ, millionaire Cyrus Hall McCormick, o si wọ ẹwu Worth si igbeyawo ọmọ rẹ ni 1904.
Ọpọlọpọ awọn ẹwu ti o ni imọran di awọn ohun-ọṣọ, ti a kọ sinu awọn iwe-ifẹ, lẹhinna o jẹ fun awọn ajogun lati yan bi wọn yoo ṣe wọ wọn, pẹlu tabi laisi awọn iyipada. Ninu akọsilẹ rẹ, Alva Vanderbilt Belmont ṣe iranti iye ti oun ati awọn arakunrin rẹ ṣe pataki si irun ibakasiẹ irun ibakasiẹ. , ati tulips lace ti o fi silẹ ninu ifẹ rẹ fun eti ewe imura igbeyawo ti iya wọn. Mejeeji Alva ati ọmọbirin rẹ Consulo nigbamii lo lace lori awọn aṣọ igbeyawo wọn. Bakanna, ni 1883, oluranlọwọ Caroline Louisa Williams Faranse ti Boston, Massachusetts, ra bulu dudu dudu kan. aṣọ velvet pẹlu chinchilla onírun trim ati aami Maison Lipman kan fun awọn francs 1,600. Aami, ti Madame Camille Lipman ṣiṣẹ, ti ṣiṣẹ ni Ilu Paris ni awọn ọdun 1880, ati awọn alabara rẹ pẹlu Maria Pia, Queen of Portugal. Diẹ ninu awọn ọdun 37 lẹhinna, Alice Williams Pearse , ọmọ Faranse, ti wa ni aworan ni ẹwu ati apo chinchilla, laisi ẹwu, ni iṣẹlẹ ti o ṣe ayẹyẹ Atunse Atunse Kọkandinlogun, eyiti Atunse naa fun awọn obirin ni ẹtọ lati dibo. Awọn aṣọ ati awọn aworan ti wa ni ile H ni bayi.Orme Wilson Jr. ati Richard Thornton Wilson III ṣetọrẹ akojọpọ awọn ẹwu si Ile ọnọ ti Ilu Ilu Ilu ti Art nipasẹ Awọn ile ti Worth, Doucet, ati Paquin, ti n pese iwoye siwaju si bi aṣọ ti ndagba nipasẹ ẹka ti idile kan Lero. Awọn arakunrin Wilson jẹ awọn ọmọ William Buckhouse Astor Jr. ati ọmọbinrin Caroline Astor Carrie.
Fun awọn iṣẹlẹ bii Bọọlu Ọdun Ọdun ti o waye ni gbogbo orilẹ-ede ni ọdun 1876, awọn obinrin ti fi aṣẹ fun awọn ẹwu ti o farawe awọn ti awọn baba wọn wọ ni awọn aworan ati awọn fọto. gowns.Some obinrin lo awọn ege lati wọn ti ara ẹni Atijo lesi collections lori orisirisi awọn igba, bi awọn Astor, ti o gbà 18th-orundun Flemish ati French lesi, diẹ ninu awọn ti eyi ti ye.Ni awọn igbeyawo ti ọmọbinrin rẹ Helen to James R. Roosevelt ni 1878, Caroline Astor fi igberaga wọ ẹwu velvet dudu kan pẹlu gige lace 200 ọdun kan.
Ijabọ miiran fun ilotunlo jẹ nipasẹ awọn idoti lati ọdọ awọn oniwun si awọn iranṣẹbinrin wọn tabi awọn olugba alanu.Caroline Astor ṣetọrẹ aṣọ si ile-iwosan awọn obinrin, lakoko ti Cornelia Stewart, ti o ni iyawo si alagbata AT Stewart, ni a sọ pe o ti fi diẹ ninu awọn aṣọ rẹ fun obinrin kan ni nilo Singer ni awọn aṣọ ipele.Gẹgẹbi Diana de Marley (onkọwe ti "History of Haute Couture") ati Kate Strastin ti fihan, iwa naa jẹ ọja ti aṣa ọba Europe ti fifun aṣọ si awọn ọmọbirin, Queen Victoria ati Alex Nitorina ṣe Ọmọ-binrin ọba. Sandra.Wales.Iṣan omiran ni lati ta awọn aṣọ si awọn oniṣowo ti o ni ọwọ keji, awọn ọmọ ti Europe ká gun-mulẹ isowo ni lo aso. Ni Paris, yi isowo ti papo niwon awọn 13th orundun, ati nipa awọn 18th orundun o ti wa ni ogidi ni ayika Les Halles. .Ni ọrundun 19th, awọn ọmọ ẹgbẹ ti idile ọba yoo ta si diẹ ninu awọn alagbata aṣọ.
Lati ibẹrẹ ọdun 18th, England tun ni itan-akọọlẹ ti tita awọn aṣọ ọba ati awọn aristocratic lori awọn paṣipaarọ aṣọ atijọ ni East London, gẹgẹbi awọn alaye Jennifer Le Zotte ninu iwe rẹ Lati Ire-rere si Grunge.She ṣe alaye siwaju sii pe ni New York, agbara keji-keji. Iṣowo ọwọ ni Iha Iwọ-oorun Ila-oorun ti a ti mu nipasẹ dide ti awọn nọmba nla ti awọn aṣikiri Ilu Yuroopu to ṣẹṣẹ laarin ọdun 1880 ati 1920, ṣiṣe nipasẹ awọn Ju ti o ni iriri ni iṣowo ati tailoring ni akọkọ. Diẹ ninu awọn ipolowo ni awọn iwe iroyin agbegbe ti nfunni lati ra awọn aṣọ ti a sọnù. Awọn ipolowo le jẹ pataki. bi hawkers han lati wa ni deede gbesele lati ifẹ si aso ni ifẹ igbogun ti tita.Anti-Semitism wá sinu play nibi nitori Ju won itan ti ri bi dominating awọn isowo, eyi ti a da jade ti tianillati nigba ti won ni won gbesele lati wọn oojo ati ki o yipada si irin kiri kẹkẹ. tita.
Awọn oṣere gba ẹda ni bi o ṣe le gba ati mu awọn aṣọ ti o gbowolori.Nigbati akọrin opera Emma Abbott ku ni ọdun 1891, oṣere Jeanne Kimball ra Worth ati Félix kaba Abbott ti wọ ni Carmen ni ọdun diẹ sẹyin. Kimball ra wọn fun ọmọbirin rẹ Corinne, ti o nyara soke. star on stage.Nigbati Elena ti Montenegro ko ni anfani lati lo ọpọlọpọ awọn titun Félix ẹwu fun awọn akoko kan ni ọfọ fun awọn Itali ọba Umberto I pa nipa anarchists, couturier akọkọ fi wọn si awọn Universal Exhibition ni Paris Lori ifihan 1900. Lakoko ti o ti n ṣabẹwo si awọn aranse, Francesca Redding admired awọn bunkun-yiyi alawọ siliki ati chiffon kaba, ra o, ati ni kiakia fi o lori ipele.Social iwé Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette ká aṣọ, eyi ti a ti fara itopase ni extant risiti pamosi, ti a reportedly ta si New York Onibara itage Eves lẹhin iku rẹ ati pe o wọ nipasẹ awọn oṣere pupọ, ni ibamu si awọn ijabọ..Nikẹhin, oṣere Sadie Martinot ta ara rẹ Worth ati Félix awọn aṣọ ipele ipele ni titaja ni May 1894 fun $ 35,000 (diẹ sii ju $ 1.1 milionu loni) . Awọn oṣere tun ta awọn aṣọ ipele wọn si awọn oniṣowo ti o ni ọwọ keji ti awọn ile-itaja, gẹgẹbi The Sun ṣe apejuwe wọn. ni 1892, "pẹlu awọn ẹwu obirin, awọn aṣọ-ikele, ati awọn aṣọ Basque ti o wa ni itan mẹta tabi mẹrin ti o jinlẹ".
Awọn ti onra ni awọn ile itaja ti o ni ọwọ keji jẹ awọn obirin ti o wa ni arin ti awọn aṣọ yoo wa fun ọdun.Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh ti Illinois awọn iwe-ipamọ ninu iwe-akọọlẹ rẹ ati awọn iwe-ipamọ aṣọ rẹ ṣe awọn aṣọ ati awọn ipele ti yoo ṣe atunṣe tabi "ya" ni awọn ọdun, pẹlu ọkan ti o wọ. ni World Columbia Show ni Chicago Suits, paapa, ti o waye awọn iṣẹlẹ nigba ti orile-ede owo idaamu ti 1893.Pẹlu ṣọra eto ati itoju, aṣọ le wa ni ipamọ ati ki o wọ igba.Nigba ti ojo, ẹrẹ, moths ati mold gbe siwaju awọn ifiyesi, multi- aṣọ abẹfẹlẹ ti o fẹlẹfẹlẹ n ṣiṣẹ bi idena laarin awọn epo ara ati idoti ati pupọ julọ aṣọ naa.
Iwa ti gbigba ohun ti o fẹ ati lẹhinna tun ṣe atunṣe, pinpin kaakiri ati paarọ rẹ ti yorisi aṣa Faranse ti pin kaakiri ni awọn akojọpọ kaakiri agbaye. Gẹgẹ bi Strastin ṣe tọka si, ẹwu Queen Alexandra ti jẹ titaja nipasẹ Ẹgbẹ Aworan Amẹrika ati Anderson Art Gallery ni ọdun 1937 , ati idamẹrin ninu rẹ ti ra nipasẹ Erin Lewison ti o si ta ni Ile ọnọ ti Ilu Ilu Ilu ti Art The School of Clothing ti dasilẹ.
Botilẹjẹpe awọn ohun elo wọnyi ko ni akiyesi awujọ diẹ ninu ero inu ode oni — furs, awọn iyẹ ẹyẹ ti awọn ẹiyẹ toje, ati paapaa awọn aṣọ-ori pẹlu awọn critters taxidermy jẹ iwunilori - a le ni riri ohun kan ti o wa ninu akoko, awọn iṣe atunlo ti a gba, ati ohun ti a pe ni upcycling. awọn igbadun ti aṣa Faranse ti wọn ra, awọn obirin Amẹrika mu awọn pragmatism kan wa si ọja.ThredUp, Poshmark ati The RealReal ayo idi pataki, koto extending awọn aye ti aso bi ohun asa olumulo aṣayan ati bi jina kuro lati eyikeyi fẹ abuku bi o ti ṣee. opin orundun 19th, ni awọn agbegbe awujọ ti o ga julọ, ko si nkankan lati yọ abuku kuro.
Lati yawo akoko ti ile-iṣẹ ẹkọ ẹkọ njagun Motif, awọn obinrin Amẹrika ti o ra aṣa Faranse ni opin ọdun 19th ṣafihan “apẹẹrẹ ipin kan ninu eyiti a ṣe apẹrẹ aṣọ ati idagbasoke pẹlu lilo atẹle ni lokan” Ra didara giga. Tun lo, tabi ṣetọrẹ. .
"));var p=b(h[i.size_id].pipin ("x"). maapu (iṣẹ (e) {Nọmba ipadabọ(e)}),2);f.iwọn=p[0], f.height=p[1]}f.rubiconTargeting=(Array.isArray(i.ìfọkànsí)?i.ìfọkànsí:[]).dinku(iṣẹ(e,t){pada e[t.key]=t. iye[0],e},{rpfl_elemid:l.adUnitCode}),t.push(f)}ohun miiran(r.logError)("Rubicon:bidIbeere 在索引位置未定义:"concat(o),n , e);pada t},[]).iru (iṣẹ(e,t){pada(t.cpm||0)-(e.cpm||0)})},getUserSyncs:iṣẹ(e,t) , n,r) {if (! U&&e.iframeEnabled){var i=””;pada n&&”string”==typeof n.consentString&&(“boolean”==typeof n.gdprApplies?i+=”?gdpr=”. concat (数字(n.gdprApplies),”&gdpr_consent=”) .concat(n.consentString):i+=”?gdpr_consent=”concat(n.consentString)),r&&(i+=””concat(i?”) & “:”?”,us_privacy=”).concat(encodeURIComponent(r))),U=!0,{iru:”iframe”,url:”https://”.concat(y.syncHost|| "eus", ".rubiconproject.com/usync.html")+i}}, yipadaBidParams: iṣẹ (e,t) {pada Nkan (r.convertTypes) ({accountId:"nọmba",siteId:"nọmba" , zoneId:”nọmba”},e)}};函数_(e,t){var n=obgetConfig(“pageUrl”);pada e.params.referrer?n=e.params.referrer:n||(n=t.refererInfo.referer),e.params.secure?n.ropo(/^http:/ i,"https:")):n } 函数 j(e){var t,n=document.getElementById(e.adUnitCode);(t=n.querySelector("div[id^='google_ads']")) &&t.style.setProperty("ifihan") "ko si"), iṣẹ (e) {var t = e.querySelector ("akosile [id ^ = 'sas_script'] "), n = t&&t.nextSibling; n&&"iframe" ===n.LocalName&&n.style. setProperty ("ifihan","ko si")} (n); var r=e.renderer.getConfig (); e.renderer.push (iṣẹ () {window.MagniteApex.renderAd ({iwọn: e.iwọn, iga :e.giga,vastUrl:e.vastUrl,ibi:{so si:”#”.concat(e.adUnitCode),align:r.align||”aarin”,ipo:r .ipo||”append”}, closeButton:r.closeButton||!1,aami:r.label||asán 0,wó:r.collapse||!0})})}函数S(e,t) {var n=e.params;if ("fidio"===t){var i=[];pada n.video&&n.video.playerWidth&&n.video.playerHeight?i=[n.video.playerWidth,n.video .playerHeight]:Array.isArray(Nkankan (r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.video.playerSize”))&&1==e.mediaTypes.video.playerSize.length?i=e.mediaTypes.fidio.playerIwon[0]: Array.isArray (e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0&&Array.isArray(e.sizes[0])&e.sizes[0] .ipari>1&&(i=e.sizes[0] 0]),i}var o=[];pada Array.isArray(n.sizes)?o=n.sizes:void 0!==Ohun(r.deepAccess)(e,"mediaTypes.banner.sizes") ?o=A(e.mediaTypes.banner.sizes):Array.isArray(e.sizes)&&e.sizes.length>0?o=A(e.sizes):Object( r.logWarn)(“Rubicon: 没有设置或找到大小”),w(o)}iṣẹ E(e,t,n){var i={olumulo:{ext:{data:f({},e .params.visitor)}},site: {ext:{data:f({},e.params.inventory)}}};e.params.keywords&&(i.site.keywords=Object(r.isArray)(e.params.keywords)?e.params .keywords.darapo(","):e.params.keywords);var c=Ohun(r.mergeDeep)({},obgetConfig("ortb2″)||{} ,i),s=Ohun(r. deepAccess)(e.ortb2Imp,”ext.data”)||{},u={olumulo:[4],ojula:[1,2,5,6]}, d={olumulo:”tg_v.”, ojula:"tg_i.",olupolowo:"tg_i.dfp_ad_unit_code",pbadslot:"tg_i.pbadslot", koko:"kw"},l=iṣẹ(e,t,n) {if("data"===t&&Array .isArray(e))pada e.filter(iṣẹ(e){pada e.segment&&Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”ext.segtax”)&&u[n]&&-1!==u[n].indexOf (Object (r.deepAccess) (e,”ext.segtax”))}) maapu (iṣẹ (e){var t =e.segment.filter(iṣẹ(e){pada e.id}).dinku(iṣẹ) (e,t){pada e.push (t.id),e},[]);if (t.length >0) pada t.toString ()}) .toString ();if("ohun"! ==v(e)||Array.isArray(e)){if (ofo 0!==e)padà Array.isArray (e)?e.filter (iṣẹ (e){if ("ohun"!==v (e)&&foid 0!==e) pada e.toString (); Nkan (r.logWarn) ("Rubicon:过滤值：”,e,”fun bọtini”,t,”：期望值为字符串、整数或字符串/整数数组”)})) .toString():e.}Nkan Ijabọ ("Rubicon: Bọtini FPD ti a ti filẹ: ",t,": Iye ti a nireti lati jẹ okun, odidi, tabi akojọpọ awọn gbolohun ọrọ/ints")},p=iṣẹ(e,t,r){var i= !(awọn ariyanjiyan) .length>3&&ofo 0!== awọn ariyanjiyan[3])||awọn ariyanjiyan[3],o=l(e,r,t),a=d[r]&&i?”".concat(d[r]): "data"===r?"".concat(d[t],"iab")):""" concat (d[t]).concat (r); n[a]=n[a]?n [a].concat(",",o): o};Object.keys(s).fun Olukuluku(iṣẹ(e){"olupolongo"==e?["orukọ","adslot"] .fun Olukuluku(函数 (t) {s[e][t]&&(s[e][t]=s[e][t].toString ().ropo(/^\/+/,""))): ”pbadslot”===e&&(s[e]=s[e].toString ().ropo (/^\/+/,””))}),t===ab?(["ojula", "olumulo". data?p ].data&&Object.bọtini (c[e].ext.data).fun Kọọkan (iṣẹ (t){p(c[e]. ext.data[t],e,t,!1)})}))) ,Object.keys(s).funEach(iṣẹ(e){"olupolongo"===e?p(s[e].adslot,orukọ,e):p(s[e],”site”,e)})):(Object.keys(s).ipari&&Object(r.mergeDeep)(n.imp[0].ext,{data :s}),Ohun(r.mergeDeep)(n,c))}iṣẹ A(e){pada Nkan(r.parseSizesInput)(e).dinku(iṣẹ(e,t){var n=parseInt(h) [t],10);pada n&&e.push(n),e},[])}函数I(e){pada”ohun”===v(Ohun(r.deepAccess)(e,”params.video) "))&&foo! & & Ariyanjiyan [1]; pada I (e)? -1 === ["outstream", "instream"] .indexOf (Nkan (r.deepAccess) (e, "mediaTypes.". concat (ipolongo,".context") )))?ofo(t&&Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.context 必须是外流或内流”)):S(e,”fidio”).ipari-1||i>-1? -1===r?1:-1 ===i?-1:ri:en})}函数x(e){var t=parseInt(Ohun(r.deepAccess)(e,”params.video. size_id”));返回isNaN(t)?“outstream”===Ohun(r.deepAccess)(e,”mediaTypes.”.concat(ipolowo,”.context”))?203:201:t}iṣẹ D(e){pada{awọn sakani:{kekere: [{max:5, afikun:.5}], alabọde:[{max:20, afikun:.1}], giga:[{max:20,increment:.01}], auto:[{max:5 ,ilosoke:.05},{min:5,max:10,ilosoke:.1},{min:10,max:20,ilosoke:.5}],ipo:[{max:3,ilosoke:.01 },{min:3,max:8,ilosoke:.05},{min:8,max:20,increment:.5}], custom:e.getConfig("customPriceBucket")&e.getConfig("customPriceBucket" ).buckets [e.getConfig("priceGranularity")]}}iṣẹ R(e){var t=!0,n=Object.prototype.toString.call([]),i={mimes:n,protocols :n,linearity:Object.prototype.toString.call(0),api:n}; 返回 Object.keys(i).fun Kọọkan(iṣẹ(n){Object.prototype.toString.call(Object(r.deepAccess)) (e,”mediaTypes.video.”+n))!==i[n]&&(t=!1,Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: mediaTypes.video.” +” 是必需的，并且必须是类型："+i[n]))}),t}iṣẹ k(e){var t=!1,n=["asi", "sid","hp"];pada e.nodes? ((t=e.nodes.reduce(iṣẹ(e,t){pada e?n.gbogbo'(e){pada t.hasOwnProperty(e)}):e},!0))|Object (r.logError) ("Rubicon: nilo schain params sonu"),t):t}iṣẹ P (e,t) {pada"rp_schain"===e?"rp_schain="concat(t):" ".concat(e,"=")).concat(encodeURIComponent(t))}var U=!1;Ohun(i.registerBidder)(O)}},[787]),pbjsChunk([107],{875) :function(e,t,n){e.exports=n(876)},876:iṣẹ(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,"__esModule",{iye:!0}),and (t,”tripleliftAdapterSpec”,iṣẹ(){pada m});var r=n(0),i=n(2),o=n(1), a=n(3);iṣẹ c(){ ipadabọ (c=Ohun.assign||iṣẹ́ (e){fun (var t=1;te.length)&&(t=e.length);fun (var n =0,r=Array tuntun(t);n0&& (t.user={ext:{eids:o}});var s=iṣẹ(e,t){var n={};pada Nkan(r.isEmpty )(e)||(n.schain=d) ({},e)), Nkan (r.isEmpty)(t)||(n.fpd=d({},t)),n}(n,i);Nkan ipadabọ(r.isEmpty)(s) )||(t.ext=s),t}(e);if(n=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,"lib","prebid"),n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n, “v”,”6.2.0″),t&&t.refererInfo){var o=t.refererInfo.referer;n=Nkan(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,” olutọkasi”,o)}pada t&&t.timeout&&(n=Nkan(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”tmax”,t.timeout)),t&&t.gdprConsent&&(ofo 0) !==t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies&&(b=t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies,n=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”gdpr”,b.toString())),ofo 0!==t.gdprConsent.&Gbagbese. (g=t.gdprConsent.consentString,n=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”cmp_cs”,g))),t&&t.uspConsent&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”us_privacy”,t. uspConsent)),!0===abgetConfig("coppa")&&(n=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,,coppa”,!0)),n.lastIndexOf("&”)===n.length-1&&(n=n.substring(0,n.length-1)),Nkan(r.logMessage)("tlCall ìbéèrè ti a ṣe:"+n),{ọna:"POST",url:n,data: i,bidderRequest:t}},tumọIdahun: iṣẹ(e,t){var n=t.bidderIbeere;pada(e.body.bids||[]) .map(iṣẹ(e){iṣẹ ipadabọ(e,t) ){var n={},r=t.iwọn||1,i=t.giga||1,o=t.deal_id||"",a=t.crid||"",c=e. bids[t.imp_id];pada 0!=t.cpm&&t.ad&&(n={requestId:c.bidId,cpm:t.cpm,iwọn:r,giga:i,netRevenue:!0, ad:t.ad ,creativeId:a,dealId:o,owo:”USD”,ttl:300,tl_source:t.tl_source,meta:{}},v(c)&&(n.vastXml=t.ad, n.mediaType=” video”,n.ttl=3600),t.advertiser_name&&(n.meta.advertiserName=t.olupolongo_orukọ),t.adomain&t.adomain.length&&(n.meta.advertiserDomains=t.adomain),t .tl_orisun&&”hdx” ==t.tl_orisun&&(n.meta.mediaType=”papa”),t.tl_orisun&&”tlx”==t.tl_orisun&&(n.meta.mediaType=”abinibi”)),n}(n ,e)}) },getUserSyncs:iṣẹ(e,t,n,i){var o=iṣẹ(e){if(e)pada e.iframeEnabled?"iframe":e.pixelEnabled?"aworan":ofo 0}(e) ;if(o){var a="https://eb2.3lift.com/sync?";pada"aworan"===o&&(a=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a, px”,1),a=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”src”,”prebid”)),asan!==g&&(a) =Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”gdpr”,b) ,a=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”cmp_cs”,g)),i&&(a=Ohun(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,” us_privacy”,i)),[{iru:o,url:a}]}}};iṣẹ v(e){pada!!e.mediaTypes.video&&!!e.mediaTypes.video.context&&”instream”== =e.mediaTypes.video.context.toLowerCase()}iṣẹ y(e){var t=asan;ti("iṣẹ"==iru e.getFloor){var n=e.getFloor({owo:"USD" ,mediaType:v(e)?”fidio”:”papa”,iwọn:”*”});”ohun”!==s(n)||"USD"!==n.currency||isNaN(parseFloat(n.floor))||(t=parseFloat(n.floor))}pada asan!==t?t:e.params.pakà}函数h(e,t){Ohun(r.isEmpty)(t)||Object.keys(t).funEach(iṣẹ(n){null!=t[n]&&(e[n]=t[n] )}) _(t)) maapu (iṣẹ(e,t){iṣẹ ipadabọ(n){pada{orisun:e,uids:[{id:n.id?n.id:n,ext:{rtiPartner:t} }]}}}(n,r))}var _=iṣẹ(e){返回函数(t,n,i){var o=!!t&&(Object(r.isStr)(t)?!!t) : Ohun (r.isPlainObject) (t) &&! Ohun (r.isArray) (t) &&! id);pada o||ofo 0===i[0]||Ohun(r.logWarn)("Triplelift: invalid".concat(e," userId format"),o}};iṣẹ j(e) ){pada e.filter(S).map(iṣẹ(e){re转{w:e[0],h:e[1]}})}函数S(e){pada 2==e. gigun&&”nọmba”==iru e[0]&”nọmba”== iru e[1]}Ohun(o.registerBidder)(m)}},[875]),pbjsChunk([11],{15:iṣẹ (e,t,n){tb=iṣẹ́(e){var t= [];fun(var n in e)if(e.hasOwnProperty(n))if("pubProvidedId"===n)t=t=t .concni(e.pubProvidedId);miiran{var r=o(e[n],n);r&t.push(r)}pada t},ta=iṣẹ(e){var t=[];pada e.filter (iṣẹ (e) {pada Nkan (r.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys (e.idObj).length}).funEach(iṣẹ(e){Ohun.bọtini (e.idObj) (n){Nkan (r.deepAccess)(e,”config.bidders “)&&Array.isArray(e.config.bidders)&&Object(r.deepAccess)(i,n+”.orisun”)&&t.push({orisun) :i[n].orisun,bidders:e.config.bidders})})}),t};var r=n(0),i={intentIqId:{orisun:”intentiq.com”,atype:1 },naveggId:{orisun:”navegg.com”,atype:1},pubcid:{orisun:”pubcid.org”,atype:1},tdid:{orisun:”adserver.org”,atype:1,getUidExt : function(){pada{rtiPartner:”TDID”}}},id5id:{getValue:function(e){pada e.uid},orisun:”id5-sync.com”,atype:1,getUidExt:function( e){ti o ba ti(e.ext)pada e.ext}},parrableId:{orisun:”parrable.com”,atype:1,getValue:function(e){pada e.eid?e.e.eid:e.ccpaOptout ?"" :null},getUidExt:function(e){var t=Ohun(r.pick)(e,["ibaOptout","ccpaOptout"]);if(Object.keys(t).ipari) pada t }}, idl_env:{orisun:”ẹdọamp.com”,atype:3},lipb:{getValue:function(e){pada e.lipbid},orisun:”liveintent.com”,atype:3,getEidExt:function(e) {if(Array.isArray) (e.segments)&&e.segments.length) ipadabọ{apa:e.segments}}},britepoolid:{orisun:”britepool.com”,atype:3},dmdId:{orisun:” hcn.health”,atype :3},lotamePanoramaId:{orisun:”crwdcntrl.net”,atype:1},criteoId:{orisun:”criteo.com”,atype:1},merkleId:{orisun:”merkleinc.com”,atype:3,getValue:function(e){pada e.id},getUidExt:function(e){pada e&e.keyID?{keyID:e.keyID}:void 0}},netId:{orisun: “netid.de”,atype:1},IDP:{orisun:”zeotap.com”,atype:1},haloId:{orisun:”audigent.com”,atype:1},quantcastId:{orisun:”quantcast .com”,atype:1},nextrollId:{orisun:”nextroll.com”,atype:1},idx:{orisun:”idx.lat”,atype:1},connectid:{来源：“verizonmedia.com ", iru: 3}, fabrickId: {来源："neustar.biz", iru: 1}, mwOpenLinkId: {来源："mediawallahscript.com", atype: 1}: "tapadId：{tapadId:{来} iru:1},novatiq:{getValue:function(e){pada e.snowflake},orisun:”novatiq.com”,atype:1},uid2:{orisun:”uidapi.com”,atype:3,getValue :function(e){pada e.id}},dapId:{orisun:”akamai.com”,atype:1},deepintentId:{orisun:”deepintent.com”,atype:3} ,admixerId:{orisun: ”admixer.net”,atype:3},adtelligentId:{orisun:”adtelligent.com”,atype:3},amxId:{orisun:”amxrtb.com”,atype:1},publinkId:{orisun:”epsilon .com”,atype:3},kpuid:{orisun:”kpuid.com”,atype:3},imuid:{orisun:”intimatemerger.com”,atype:1},connectId:{来源:”yahoo.com”,atype:3}};函数o(e,t){var n=i[t];if(n&&e){var o={};o.source=n.source;var a=Ohun (r.isFn)(n.getValue)?n.getValue(e):e;if(Ohun(r.isStr)(a)){var c={id:a,atype:n.atype};if() Nkan (r.isFn)(n.getUidExt)){var s=n.getUidExt(e);s&&(c.ext=s)}if(o.uids=[c],Ohun(r.isFn)(n) .getEidExt)){var u=n.getEidExt(e);u&&(o.ext=u)}返回o}}pada null}},897:function(e,t,n){e.exports=n( 898)},898:iṣẹ(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,”__esModule”,{iye: !0}),and(t,”PBJS_USER_ID_OPTOUT_NAME”,iṣẹ(){pada w}), nd(t,”coreStorage”,iṣẹ(){pada x}),nd(t,”syncDelay”,iṣẹ() {pada _}),nd(t,”auctionDelay”,iṣẹ(){pada j}) ,t.setSubmoduleRegistry=iṣẹ(e){U=e},t.setStoredValue=B,t.setStoredConsentData=L,t .findRootDomain=V,t.requestBidsHook=K,nd(t,”validateGdprEnforcement”,iṣẹ() {pada Y}),t.attachIdSystem=te,t.init=ne;var r=n(11),i=nn(r),o=n(3),a=n(10),c=nn (a),s=n(14),u=n(8),d=n(5),l=nn (d),f=n(9),p=n(15),b=n( 7),g=n(0),m=n(12),v=nn(m);函数y(e ,t){(asan=t||t>e.length)&&(t=e) .ipari);fun(var n = 0, r = titun Array (t); n1 & & ofo 0!==参数 [1] ?ariyanjiyan [1]: ofo 0,r = n?"".concat (e.name,"_"). concat(n):e.name;gbiyanju{if(e.type===A)t= x.getCookie(r);bibi(e.type===I){var i=x.getDataFromLocalStorage(" "concat (e.name,"_exp"));"" ===i?t = x.getDataFromLocalStorage (r): i & & titun Ọjọ (i).gbaTime () -Date.nisin ()> 0 & & (t =). decodeURIComponent(x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r)))}”okun”==iru t&&”{“===t.trim().charAt(0)&&(t=JSON.parse(t))}mu(e) {Ohun(g.logError)(e)}pada t}iṣẹ q(e){var t={consentString:””,gdprApplies:!1,apiVersion:0};pada e&&(t.consentString=e.consentString, t .gdprApplies=e.gdprApplies,t.apiVersion=e.apiVersion),Ohun(g.cyrb53Hash)(JSON.stringify(t))}函数L(e){gbiyanju{var t=Ojo tuntun(Date.bayi ) +864e5*C).toUTCString();x.setCookie(T,q(e),t,t,Lax”)}catch(e){Ohun(g.logError)(e)}}函数F(){试试{pada x.getCookie(T)}mu (e){Nkan(g.logError)(e)}}函数z(e){if(e&”boolean”==iru e.gdprApplies&&e.gdprApplies){ti o ba (!e.consentString) pada!1; if(1===e.apiVersion&&!1===Ohun(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData. purposeConsents.1″)) pada!1;if(2===) e.apiVersion&&!1===Ohun(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData.purpose.consents.1″))pada!1}pada!0}iṣẹ V(){var e=arguments.length>0&&void 0 !== ariyanjiyan[0]?ariyanjiyan[0]:window.location.hostname;if(!x.cookiesAreEnabled()) pada e;var t,n,r=e.split(“.”);if(2) ==r.length)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Date.now()),a=”writeable”;do{t=r.slice(i).darapo mo( "."); var c = Ọjọ titun (Ohun (g.timestamp) ()+1e4) .toUTCString (); x.setCookie (o, a,c, "Lax", t, ofo 0), x.getCookie (o, ofo 0)===a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,"","Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:01 GMT", ofo 0,t, ofo 0)): (i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=iṣẹ(){r||(r=!0,e())};Ohun (g.logInfo)("".concat(E,"- 拍卖延迟 ") .concat(j," 最多获取 ids"),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)}miiran caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END ,函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(iṣẹ(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&e() }函数 K( e,t){H(iṣẹ(){! iṣẹ(e,t){[e].diẹ ninu(e){pada!Array.isArray(e)||!e.length})||e.funEach(iṣẹ(e){e.bids&&Object(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(iṣẹ(e){var n=iṣẹ(e,t){pada Array.isArray(e)&e.长度&&t?e.filter(iṣẹ(e){pada!e.config.bidders||!Nkan (g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)} ) .filter(iṣẹ(e){pada Nkan(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).dinku(iṣẹ(e,t){pada Nkankan.keys(t. idObj).fun Olukuluku (iṣẹ(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n]}),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.keys(n).length&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Ohun(pb)(n))})})}(t.adUnits||Ohun(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]) wa (iṣẹ (e){pada e.orisun===S});if(n&&”string”==typeof Nkan(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”) ) {var r=n.uids[0].id.ropo (/[\W_] /g,"");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.ipari?{ti ṣe:!0}:{ti ṣe tan. :!1,iye:e[r++]}},e:function(e){ju e},f:i}}ju IruError tuntun("Invalid尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n为了可迭代，靡可迭代，靡必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o,a=!0,c=!1;pada{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function() ){var e=n.ext();pada a=e.ti pari,e},e:iṣẹ(e){c=!0,o=e},f:function(){gbiyanju{a||asan=n.pada||n.pada()}最后{if( c)ju o}}}}(i );gbiyanju{fun (ss();!(a=sn()) ti pari;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name) ||(Nkan (g.logInfo)("".concat(E,"- 刷新").concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.length&&N(h),Ohun(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.push(d))}} apeja(e){se(e)}ipari{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c) ),t&&t()} Ohun miiran(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 kuki,退出模块”)))})}var Y=Nkan(fb)(fb)) ”,iṣẹ(e,t){pada{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&t.hasValidated}},”validateGdprEnforcement”);函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;if("nọmba"==iru e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=Ọjọ tuntun(M(e.config.storage," kẹhin”));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!iṣẹ́(e,t){pada asan! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.konfigi,t,o):”iṣẹ”==iru e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Ohun(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”iṣẹ”==typeof i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))}miiran ti (e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;miiran{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,void 0);Nkan(Nkan) g.isPlainObject)(s)&&("iṣẹ"==typeof s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) )}}函数$(e){fun(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.preload&&e.preloadThreshhold&&function(e,t,n ,i){pada t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(iṣẹ(){e.trigger(“显示”,tuntun r(“显示”,t))} ,15):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=iṣẹ( ){pada t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=iṣẹ(){pada t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=iṣẹ(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();pada i.top>=0&i.left>=0&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 {完成：真 };返回 { ，值：o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) {抛出 _e;}, f: F };} jabọ IruError tuntun(“对不可迭代实例的迭代就帍可可代例的迭代就帯日？ ，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalCompletion = otito, didErr = iro, err;pada {s: function s () { it = o[Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n () {var step = it.next();normalCompletion = step.done;返回步骤；}, e: 函数 e (_e2) { didErr = otito;错误 = _e2;}, f: iṣẹ f () {gbiyanju {ti o ba ti (!normalCompletion && it.return!= asan) it.return ();} 最后 {ti o ba ti (didErr) jabọ err;}}};} iṣẹ _unsupportedIterableToArray (o, minLen) {ti o ba ti (! o) pada;ti (typeof o === "okun") pada _arrayLikeToArray (o, minLen); var n = Object.prototype.toString.call (o) ege (8, -1); if (n == = "对象" && o.constructor) n = o.constructor.name; ti o ba ti (n === "Map" ||n === “Ṣeto”) pada Array.lati (o); if (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped )?Array$/.idanwo(n)) pada _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) {if (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length; fun ( var i = 0, arr2 = titun Array (len); i
Akoko ifiweranṣẹ: Jan-19-2022