Esi siqwenga sithatyathwe kwi Ukunxiba: Abasetyhini Abaphembelela iFashoni yesiFrentshi (MIT Press), eyapapashwa ekuqaleni nguMIT News Reader kwaye yaphinda yapapashwa apha ngemvume.
Iinkokeli zefashoni ziyaqhubeka nokunyusa iinzame zazo emva kokuba i-COP26 icele ngokunyanisekileyo ihlabathi ukuba lithathe inyathelo kutshintsho lwemozulu. UChloé uye waba lolona phawu lokuqala lodidi olunexabiso eliphezulu ukufikelela “kwimo ye-B Corporation” enqwenelekayo kwaye ngoku uphethe eso sitywina semvume, ebonisa ukuzibophelela kwayo ekunciphiseni. impembelelo yayo ebantwini nakwiplanethi ngokusetyenziswa kwamandla ahlaziyekayo kunye nezinto ezifunyenwe ngokuziphatha, phakathi kwamakhulu amanye amanyathelo omonakalo.Iziko le-Worn Wear ePatagonia likhokela urhwebo-ngaphakathi kodwa udidi lwempahla esetyenziswayo.Ihambelana nokukhula “kokuthenga okunoxanduva "Iinkampani ezithengisayo i-ThredUp (eyasungulwa kwi-2009), i-Poshmark (eyasungulwa kwi-2011) kunye ne-RealReal (eyasungulwa ngo-2011) .Iintengiselwano ezidwelisiweyo, zonke ezintathu zinokukhula okuphezulu, kodwa kungekhona inzuzo ephezulu.
Kwangaxeshanye, amajelo eendaba efashoni, kunye ne-WWD ngokukodwa, balandelela amabango orhwaphilizo ziimpawu zodidi oluphezulu njengoMqeqeshi wezenzo ezicingelwayo ezifunyaniswe zitshabalalisa intaphane yeebhegi zezandla ezingafezekanga endaweni yokuzilungisa okanye ukuzibuyisela. bahlaze, ngelixa iipodcasters zilinganisela impumelelo yebhrendi kwaye ziphosakele.Intatheli yefashoni uAmy Odell, umbhali wephephandaba elizimeleyo elithi “Back Row”, ugxile kumabango angeyonyani enkampani.Kuqikelelo lwakhe luka-2022: “Uzinzo lweBullshit luza kuqhubeka luthathwa. ngokuzimisela, nangona kungekudala beza kujongana nemithetho engqongqo e-US” Uye waphawula ukuba “kulo nyaka i-FTC iza kuhlaziya iziKhokelo zayo 'eziluhlaza'," ezijolise ekuncedeni abathengisi baphephe ukwenza amabango endalo alahlekisa abathengi.
Ngoku “ukuthenga okusekwe kwixabiso” kunye “nozinzo lokukhethwa kwemveliso” kusanda, ngoku lixesha elifanelekileyo lokubona ukuba ezi zenzo zinxibelelana njani nezenzo zexesha elidlulileyo. Ingaba abayili kunye neenzame zangoku zabathengi zidibana njani ngokuchasene nezinyanya zabo zefashoni (njengeMaison Félix kunye neHouse of Worth) kunye nabathengi babo abanolwazi lwamazwe ngamazwe? Yintoni esinokuyifunda kukuzinikela kwenkulungwane ye-19 ekusetyenzisweni kwakhona nasekunyuseni umgangatho, umgangatho phezu kobuninzi?
Ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane ye-19, ifashoni yesiFrentshi yayiyeyona nto yayithengiweyo yobunewunewu kubafazi baseMelika abazizityebi. Abasetyhini abachitha amawaka eedola kwiilokhwe zesiFrentshi bakhulisa utyalo-mali lwabo ngokuphinda bahlawule - bazinxibe kaninzi kwixesha lonyaka okanye iminyaka, ngokuchaseneyo noko. benza ngeyona jewelry yabo ixabiseke kakhulu Akukho mahluko.Banokuthi banxibe ilokhwe ngendlela yayo yoqobo, bayiphucule kwakhona, okanye baqeshe umenzi wokuqala okanye umthungi wendawo ukuba ayilungise kwakhona.Ezi zenzo zibonisa ugxininiso kwimiqhaphu yobunewunewu kwaye yendele nzulu. kwinkcubeko yasebukhosini yaseYurophu.Njengokuba umbhali-mbali kunye nomgcini-mbali uKate Strastin echaza Ngaphakathi kwiWardrobe yasebukhosini: Imbali yesinxibo kaKumkanikazi u-Alexandra, u-Alexandra, iNkosazana yaseWales, wayenomthungi wakhe uLady Liz kunye nenkampani iguqule ilokhwe yakhe yomtshato eyenziwe eBritani ibe yingubo yangokuhlwa. Ngo-Matshi 1863, iintsuku ezimbalwa emva komtshato wakhe no-Edward VII.Intsimbi ekrwada kwiWaverley Ball eLondon ngo-1871.Ilokhwe ineleyibhile ye-Elise kwaye igcinwe namhlanje kwiNgqokelela yesinxibo sasebukhosini eKensington Palace.
UMary Endicott Chamberlain wayenxibe ilokhwe efanayo yesilika eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ye-House of Worth enentambo, iintsimbi kunye nevelvet kwimisitho emibini eyahlukeneyo yasenkundleni eLondon ngoMatshi nangoJulayi 1893. kwaye okwesibini yayingumtshato weDuke kunye neDuchess yaseYork (kamva uKumkani uGeorge V kunye noKumkanikazi uMary) .Ukwasetyenziselwa ukuthumela iingubo zakhe ze-Worth emva kwindlu yefashoni ukwenzela ukulungiswa, njengoko wenzayo xa wayefuna i-lace yeVan Dyke. ikhola kwilokhwe ye-satin ebomvu.
Ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-2000, abasetyhini abakumgangatho ophezulu eMelika bamkela isiseko sasebukhosini sokuphinda bathenge iimpahla.Xa uElizabeth Patterson waseBaltimore watshata noJerome Bonaparte ngo-1803, wayenxibe ilokhwe ehonjisiweyo ye-muslin emhlophe, awayeyinxibile kaninzi ukususela ngoko.Ilokhwe yesiFrentshi kaNancy Fowler McCormick , ngoku kwingqokelela ye-Chicago Historical Society, ibonisa iimpawu zokuphinda zinxitywe.Waye waya kwimicimbi emininzi yentlalo kunye nomyeni wakhe, usozigidi uCyrus Hall McCormick, kwaye wayenxibe i-Worth gown kumtshato wonyana wakhe ngo-1904.
Iingubo ezininzi ze-elite ziba yindlalifa, zibhalwe kwimiyolelo, kwaye ke kuxhomekeke kwiindlalifa ukuba zikhethe ukuba ziya kuzinxiba njani, okanye zingenazo iinguqu. , kunye ne-tulip ye-lace eshiywe kwintando yakhe yengubo yomtshato yomama wabo egqabi.Bobabini u-Alva kunye nentombi yakhe u-Consulo kamva basebenzisa ilayisi kwiilokhwe zabo zomtshato. Ngokufanayo, ngowe-1883, u-philanthropist uCaroline Louisa Williams ongumFrentshi waseBoston, Massachusetts, wathenga iblue blue emnyama. isuti yevelvet ene-chinchilla fur trim kunye neleyibhile ye-Maison Lipman ye-1,600 francs.Ibrand, eqhutywa nguMadame Camille Lipman, yabaleka eParis ngeminyaka yoo-1880, kwaye abathengi bayo baquka uMaria Pia, uKumkanikazi wasePortugal. Kwiminyaka engama-37 kamva, u-Alice Williams Pearse , inzala yesiFrentshi, ifanekiselwa kwi-gown kunye ne-chinchilla bag, ngaphandle kwengubo, kwisiganeko sokubhiyozela iSihlomelo seShumi elinesithoba, isilungiso sanika abafazi ilungelo lokuvota.Iingubo kunye neefoto ngoku zigcinwe kwi-H.istoric New England.U-Orme Wilson Omnci .Abazalwana bakaWilson ngoonyana bakaWilliam Buckhouse Astor Omnci kunye nentombi kaCaroline Astor uCarrie.
Kwiminyhadala efana neCentennial Ball eyabanjwa kulo lonke ilizwe ngo-1876, abasetyhini bagunyazisa iigawuni ezilinganisa ezo zinxitywa ngookhokho babo kwiifoto kunye neefoto. iigawuni.Abanye abafazi basebenzisa iziqwenga kwiingqokelela zabo zobuqu iileyisi zakudala ngezihlandlo ezahlukeneyo, njengoko benzayo Astors, owaqokelela i-Flemish ngenkulungwane ye-18 ileyisi French, ezinye ziye zasinda.Ekumtshato wentombi yakhe uHelen James R. Roosevelt e Ngo-1878, uCaroline Astor ngokuzingca wayenxibe igawuni emnyama yevelvethi ene-200 yeminyaka ubudala yeleyisi yokunxiba.
Enye indawo esetyenziselwa ukuphinda isetyenziswe yinkunkuma evela kubanini isiya kwizicakakazi zabo okanye abo bamkela izipho. UCaroline Astor unikele ngempahla kwisibhedlele sabasetyhini, ukanti uCornelia Stewart, otshate nomthengisi u-AT Stewart, kuthiwa unike inkosikazi ethile ngempahla yakhe. idinga uMculi kwisinxibo seqonga.Njengoko uDiana de Marley (umbhali we "History of Haute Couture") kunye noKate Strastin bebonisile, lo mkhwa wawuyimveliso yendlela yasebukhosini yaseYurophu yokuhambisa ilokhwe kubakhonzazana, uKumkanikazi uVictoria kunye no-Alex Wenza njalo iNkosazana. Sandra.Wales.Omnye uthungelwano kukuthengisa iilokhwe kubathengisi bezandla ezisetyenzisiweyo, inzala yeYurophu kudala yasekwa kwimpahla esetyenzisiweyo.EParis, olu rhwebo lukho ukususela ngenkulungwane ye-13, kwaye ngenkulungwane ye-18 lwalugxininisekile malunga neLes Halles. .Ngenkulungwane ye-19, amalungu entsapho yasebukhosini ayethengisela abanye abarhwebi bempahla.
Ukusukela ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane ye-18, iNgilani nayo inembali yokuthengisa iimpahla zasebukhosini kunye nezobutata kutshintshiselwano lweempahla ezindala eMonti, njengoko uJennifer Le Zotte ecacisa kwincwadi yakhe ethi From Goodwill to Grunge. ukurhweba ngesandla kwi-Lower East Side kwaphenjelelwa kukufika kwamanani amakhulu abafuduki baseYurophu bakutshanje phakathi kwe-1880 kunye ne-1920, eqhutywa ikakhulu ngamaYuda anamava okuthengisa kunye nokuthunga.Amanye apapashwa kumaphephandaba asekuhlaleni anikezela ukuthenga iimpahla ezilahliweyo.Izibhengezo zingaba yimfuneko. njengoko abarhwebi babonakala bevalwa rhoqo ekuthengeni iimpahla kwiintengiso zokuhlaselwa kwesisa. I-Anti-Semitism yangena apha ngenxa yokuba amaYuda ayebonwa njengembali yorhwebo, owadalwa ngenxa yemfuneko xa ayevaliwe kwimisebenzi yawo kwaye ajikela kwinqwelo yabakhenkethi. iintengiso.
Iimvumi zeopera u-Emma Abbott wasweleka ngowe-1891, umdlali weqonga uJeanne Kimball wathenga iWorth neFélix ilokhwe ka-Abbott awayeyinxibile uCarmen kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo. UKimball wayithengela intombi yakhe uCorinne. inkwenkwezi eqongeni.Xa u-Elena waseMontenegro akazange akwazi ukusebenzisa iingubo ezintsha zeFélix ixesha elithile ekuzileni ukumkani wase-Italiya u-Umberto I wabulawa yi-anarchists, i-couturier yokuqala yazibeka kwi-Universal Exhibition e-Paris On display 1900. umboniso, uFrancesca Redding wancoma i-silk eluhlaza kunye nengubo ye-chiffon egqitywe ngamagqabi, wayithenga, kwaye wayibeka ngokukhawuleza eqongeni.I-wardrobe yengcali yezentlalo uMary Rita Wilson-Gollette, eyalandwa ngononophelo kwii-invoyisi ezisele zikho, kuthiwa yathengiswa eNew York. Umxhasi wethiyetha u-Eves emva kokusweleka kwakhe kwaye wayenxitywe ngabadlali abaninzi, ngokweengxelo..Ekugqibeleni, umdlali weqonga uSadie Martinot wathengisa eyakhe iWorth kunye neFélix igawuni zeqonga kwifandesi ngoMeyi 1894 ngeedola ezingama-35,000 (ngaphezu kwe-1.1 yezigidi zeerandi namhlanje) .Abadlali baphinde bathengisa iilokhwe zabo zeqonga kubathengisi bakudala ababekho, njengoko ILanga libachaze. ngo-1892, "ngeziketi, iziketi, kunye neempahla zeBasque zijinga amabali amathathu okanye amane nzulu".
Abathengi kwiivenkile zamasekeni ngabafazi abakudidi oluphakathi abampahla zabo ziya kuhlala iminyaka.UHannah Ditzler Alspaugh wase-Illinois amaxwebhu kwijenali yakhe kunye nelaphu lakhe lokukrala iincwadi iilokhwe kunye neesuti wayeza kuphinda azenze okanye “azikrazule” kule minyaka idlulileyo, kuquka nenye awayeyinxiba. kwi-World Columbia Show eChicago Suits, ngokuphawulekayo, yabamba isiganeko ngexesha lentlekele yezemali yesizwe ye-1893. Ngokucwangciswa ngononophelo kunye nokugcinwa, izambatho zinokugcinwa kwaye zinxitywe rhoqo.Ngelixa imvula, udaka, amanundu kunye nokungunda kuphakamisa inkxalabo eyongezelelweyo, ezininzi- Iimpahla zangaphantsi ezinomaleko zisebenza njengomqobo phakathi kwe-oyile yomzimba kunye nokungcola kunye nobuninzi bempahla.
Umkhuba wokufumana into oyifunayo uze uyibuyisele, uyijikelezise kwaye uyitshintshise ikhokelele ekubeni ifashoni yesiFrentshi isasazwe ngokubanzi kwiingqokelela kwihlabathi jikelele.Njengoko uStrastin ebonisa, igawuni kaKumkanikazi uAlexandra yathengiswa yiAmerican Art Association kunye neAnderson Art Gallery ngo-1937. , yaye ikota yayo yathengwa nguErin Lewison yaza yathengiswa kwiMetropolitan Museum of Art ISikolo seMpahla sasekwa.
Nangona ezi mathiriyeli zinolwazi oluncinane lwezentlalo kwingqalelo yanamhlanje-uboya, iintsiba zeentaka ezinqabileyo, kwanezigqubuthelo zentloko ezine-taxidermy critters ziyanqweneleka-sisenokuxabisa into ekhoyo ngelo xesha, uqheliselo olwamkelekileyo lokuphinda lusetyenziswe, kunye nento esiyibiza ngokuba yi-upcycling ngoku. ubunewunewu befashoni yaseFransi abayithengayo, abafazi baseMelika bazisa ipragmatism ethile kwimarike.ThredUp, Poshmark kunye neRealReal ibeka phambili injongo, ngokwandisa ngabom ubomi bempahla njengokhetho lomthengi olusesikweni kwaye kude kakhulu kulo naliphi na ibala elinqwenelekayo. ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane yeshumi elinesithoba, kwezona ndawo ziphakamileyo zentlalo, kwakungekho nto yakususa ibala.
Ukuboleka ixesha lenkampani yokufundisa ngefashoni iMotif, abafazi baseMelika abathenga ifashoni yesiFrentshi ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane ye-19 bazisa "imodeli ejikelezayo apho isambatho sayilwa kwaye saphuhliswa ngokusetyenziswa okulandelayo engqondweni".Thenga umgangatho ophezulu.Sebenzisa kwakhona, okanye unikele .
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((t=e.nodes.reduce(function(e,t){return e?n.every(function(e){return t.hasOwnProperty(e)}):e},!0))||Object(r.logError)(“Rubicon: i-schain params efunekayo”),t):t}function P(e,t){return”rp_schain”===e ?”rp_schain=”.concat(t):” ".concat(e,"=").concat(encodeURIComponent(t))}var U=!1;Into(i.registerBidder)(O)}},[787]),pbjsChunk([107],{875 :umsebenzi (e,t,n){e.exports=n(876)},876:umsebenzi(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,"__esModule",{value:!0}),nd (t,”tripleliftAdapterSpec”,function(){return m});var r=n(0),i=n(2),o=n(1), a=n(3);function c(){ buyisela(c=Object.assign||function(e){for(var t=1;te.length)&&(t=e.length);ku(var n =0,r=iArray entsha(t);n0&& (t.user={ext:{eids:o}});var s=function(e,t){var n={};buyisela into(r.isEmpty )(e)||(n.schain=d ({},e)), Into(r.isEmpty)(t)||(n.fpd=d({},t)),n}(n, i);buyisela into(r.isEmpty)(s) )||(t.ext=s),t}(e);ukuba(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”lib”,”prebid”),n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n, ”v”,”6.2.0″),t&&t.refererInfo){var o=t.refererInfo.referer;n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”referrer”,o)}buyisela t&t.timeout&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”tmax”,t.timeout)),t&t.gdprConsent&&(void 0) !==t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies&&(b=t.gdprConsent.gdprApplies,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”gdpr”,b.toString())),ingekho 0!==t.gdprmvume&mvume. (g=t.gdprConsent.consentString,n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”cmp_cs”,g))),t&t.uspConsent&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”us_privacy”,t. uspConsent)),!0===abgetConfig(“coppa”)&&(n=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(n,”coppa”,!0)),n.lastIndexOf(“&”)===n.ubude-1&&(n=n.substring(0,n.length-1)),Object(r.logMessage)(“tlCall isicelo sakhiwe: “+n),{method:”POST”,url:n,data: i,bidderRequest:t}},interpretResponse:function(e,t){var n=t.bidderRequest;buyisela(e.body.bids||[]).map(umsebenzi(e){return function(e,t) ){var n={},r=t.width||1,i=t.height||1,o=t.deal_id||”",a=t.crid||”",c=e. iibhidi[t.imp_id];buyisela 0!=t.cpm&t.ad&(n={requestId:c.bidId,cpm:t.cpm,width:r,height:i,netRevenue:!0, ad:t.ad ,creativeId:a,dealId:o,imali:”USD”,ttl:300,tl_source:t.tl_source,meta:{}},v(c)&&(n.vastXml=t.ad,n.mediaType=” ividiyo”,n.ttl=3600),t.igama_lomkhangisi&&(n.meta.advertiserName=t.advertiser_name),t.adomain&&t.adomain.length&(n.meta.advertiserDomains=t.adomain),t .tl_source&&”hdx” ==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”banner”),t.tl_source&&”tlx”==t.tl_source&&(n.meta.mediaType=”native”)),n}(n,e)}) },getUserSyncs:umsebenzi(e,t,n,i){var o=function(e){ukuba(e)buyisela e.iframeEnabled?”iframe”:e.pixelEnabled?”umfanekiso”:ayikho 0}(e) ;ukuba(o){var a=”https://eb2.3lift.com/sync?”;buyisela”umfanekiso”===o&&(a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a, px”,1),a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”src”,”prebid”)),null!==g&&(a =Into(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”gdpr”,b) ,a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a,”cmp_cs”,g)),i&&(a=Object(r.tryAppendQueryString)(a," yethu_yabucala”,i)),[{uhlobo:o,url:a }]}}};umsebenzi v(e){return!!e.mediaTypes.video&&!!e.mediaTypes.video.context&&”instream”== =e.mediaTypes.video.context.toLowerCase()}umsebenzi y(e){var t=null;ukuba(“function”==typeof e.getFloor ){var n=e.getFloor({imali:”USD” ,mediaType:v(e)?”ividiyo”:”ibhanile”,ubukhulu:”*”});”into”!==s(n)||”USD”!==n.currency||isNaN(parseFloat(n.floor))||(t=parseFloat(n.floor))}buyisela null!==t?t:e.params.floor}函数h(e,t){Object(r.isEmpty)(t)||Object.keys(t).forEach(function(n){null!=t[n]&&(e[n]=t[n] )})} 函数O(e,t,n,r){buyisela e.map(umsebenzi(e){buyisela umsebenzi(t){buyisela t&t.userId&&t.userId[e]}}(t)).filtha( _(t)).maphu(umsebenzi(e,t){return function(n){return{source:e,uids:[{id:n.id?n.id:n,ext:{rtiPartner:t} }]}}}(n,r))} var _=umsebenzi(e){返回函数(t,n,i){var o=!!t&&(Object(r.isStr)(t)?!!t :Object(r.isPlainObject)(t)&&!Object(r.isArray)(t)&&!Object(r.isEmpty)(t)&t.id&&Object(r.isStr)(t.id)&&!!t. id); buyisela o||void 0===i[0]||Into(r.logWarn)(“Triplelift: ayisebenzi “.concat(e,” ifomathi yeID yomsebenzisi”)),o}};umsebenzi j(e ){buyisela e.filtha(S).maphu(umsebenzi(e){re转{w:e[0],h:e[1]}})}函数S(e){buyisela 2===e. ubude&&”inombolo”==typeof e[0]&&”inombolo”==typeof e[1]}Into(o.registerBidder)(m)}},[875]),pbjsChunk([11],{15:function (e,t,n){tb=umsebenzi(e){var t= [];ye(var n in e)ukuba(e.hasOwnProperty(n))ukuba(“pubProvidedId”===n)t=t .conce(e.pubProvidedId); enye{var r=o(e[n],n);r&t.push(r)}buyisela t},ta=function(e){var t=[];buyisela isihluzi (umsebenzi(e){return Object(r.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).ubude}).forEach(function(e){Object.keys(e.idObj).forEach(function) (n){Object(r.deepAccess)(e,”config.bidders “)&&Array.isArray(e.config.bidders)&&Object(r.deepAccess)(i,n+”.source”)&t.push({umthombo). :i[n].umthombo, abathengi:e.config.bidders})})}),t};var r=n(0),i={intentIqId:{umthombo:”intentiq.com”,atype:1 },naveggId:{umthombo:”navegg.com”,atype:1} ,pubcid:{source:”pubcid.org”,atype:1},tdid:{source:”adserver.org”,atype:1,getUidExt :function(){return{rtiPartner:”TDID”}}},id5id :{getValue:function(e){return e.uid},source:”id5-sync.com”,atype:1,getUidExt:function( e){ukuba(e.ext)buyisela e.ext}},parrableId:{source:”parrable.com”,atype:1,getValue:function(e){return e.eid?e.eid:e.ccpaOptout ?”" :null},getUidExt:function(e){var t=Object(r.pick)(e,["ibaOptout","ccpaOptout"]);if(Object.keys(t).ubude)buyisela t }}, idl_env:{umthombo:”isibindiamp.com”,atype:3},lipb:{getValue:function(e){return e.lipbid},source:”liveintent.com”,atype:3,getEidExt:function(e) {if(Array.isArray) (e.segments)&&e.segments.length)buyisela{segments:e.segments}}},britepoolid:{source:”britepool.com”,atype:3},dmdId:{source:”hcn.health”,atype: :3},lotamePanoramaId:{umthombo:”crwdcntrl.net”,atype:1},criteoId:{umthombo:”criteo.com”,atype:1},merkleId:{umthombo:”merkleinc.com”,atype:3,getValue:function(e){return e.id},getUidExt:function(e){return e&&e.keyID?{keyID:e.keyID}:void 0}},netId:{source: “netid.de”,atype:1},IDP:{source:”zeotap.com”,atype:1},haloId:{source:”audigent.com”,atype:1},quantcastId:{source:”quantcast .com”,atype:1},nextrolId:{umthombo:”nextroll.com”,atype:1},idx:{umthombo:”idx.lat”,atype:1},uqhagamshelwe:{來源:“verizonmedia.com ”, uhlobo:3},fabrickId:{來源:“neustar.biz”，atype:1},mwOpenLinkId:{來源:“mediawallahscript.com”,atype:1},tapadId:{來源: “tapad.com”, uhlobo:1},novatiq:{getValue:function(e){return e.snowflake},source:”novatiq.com”,atype:1},uid2:{source:”uidapi.com” ,atype:3,getValue :function(e){return e.id}},dapId:{source:”akamai.com”,atype:1},deepintentId:{source:”deepintent.com”,atype:3} ,admixerId:{source: ”admixer.net”,atype:3},adtelligentId:{source:”adtelligent.com”,atype:3},amxId:{source:”amxrtb.com”,atype:1},publinkId:{source:”epsilon .com”,atype:3},kpuid:{umthombo:”kpuid.com”,atype:3},imuid:{umthombo:”intimatemerger.com”,atype:1},connectId:{來源:”yahoo.com”,atype:3}};函数o(e,t){var n=i[t];ukuba(n&e){var o={};o.source=n.source;var a=Object (r.isFn)(n.getValue)?n.getValue(e):e;ukuba(Into(r.isStr)(a)){var c={id:a,atype:n.atype} ;ukuba( Into(r.isFn)(n.getUidExt)){var s=n.getUidExt(e);s&&(c.ext=s)}ukuba(o.uids=[c],Object(r.isFn )(n .getEidExt)){var u=n.getEidExt(e);u&&(o.ext=u)}返回o}}buyisela i-null}},897:umsebenzi(e,t,n){e.exports=n( 898)},898:umsebenzi(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,”__esModule”,{value: !0}),nd(t,”PBJS_USER_ID_OPTOUT_NAME”,function(){return w}), nd(t,”coreStorage”,function(){return x}),nd(t,”syncDelay”,function() {return _}),nd(t,”auctionDelay”,function(){return j}) ,t.setSubmoduleRegistry=function(e){U=e},t.setStoredValue=B,t.setStoredConsentData=L,t .findRootDomain=V,t.requestBidsHook=K,nd(t,"validateGdprEnforcement",function() {buyisela Y}),t.attachIdSystem=te,t.init=ne;var r=n(11),i= nn(r),o=n(3),a=n(10),c=nn (a),s=n(14),u=n(8),d=n(5),l=nn (d),f=n(9),p=n(15),b=n( 7),g=n(0),m=n(12),v=nn(m);函数y(e ,t){(null==t||t>e.ubude)&&(t=e .ubude);ye(var n=0,r=Uluhlu olutsha(t);n1&&void 0!==参数[1] ?iimpikiswano[1]:akukho 0,r=n?”.concat(e.name,"_”). concat(n):e.name;zama{ukuba(e.type===A)t= x.getCookie(r); kungenjalo ukuba(e.type===I){var i=x.getDataFromLocalStorage(“ ”.concat(e.igama,”_exp”));”"===i?t= x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r):i&&new Date(i).getTime()-Date.now()>0&&(t= decodeURIComponent(x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r)))}”string”==typeof t&&”{“===t.trim().charAt(0)&&(t=JSON.parse(t))}bamba(e) {Object(g.logError)(e)}buyisela t}umsebenzi q(e){var t={consentString:"",gdprApplies:!1,apiVersion:0};buyisela e&(t.consentString=e.consentString, t .gdprApplies=e.gdprApplies,t.apiVersion=e.apiVersion),Object(g.cyrb53Hash)(JSON.stringify(t))}函数L(e){zama{var t=Umhla omtsha(Umhla.ngoku( ) +864e5*C).toUTCString();x.setCookie(T,q(e),t,”Lax”)}bamba(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数F(){试试{buyisela x.getCookie(T)}bamba(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数z(e){ukuba(e&&”boolean”==typeof e.gdprApplies&e.gdprApplies){ukuba (!e.consentString)buyisela!1;ukuba(1===e.apiVersion&!1===Object(g.deepAccess)(e,"vendorData. purposeConsents.1″))buyisela!1;ukuba(2=== e.apiVersion&&!1===Object(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData.purpose.consents.1″))return!1}return!0}function V(){var e=arguments.length>0&&void 0 !==iingxoxo[0]?iingxoxo[0]:window.location.igama lomninimzi;ukuba(!x.cookiesAreEnabled())buyisela e;var t,n,r=e.split(“.”);ukuba(2) ==r.ubude)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Umhla.ngoku()),a=”ebhalekayo”;yenza{t=r.isiqhekeza(i).join( ".");var c =umhla omtsha(Into(g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,"Lax",t,void 0),x.getCookie (o, akukho 0)= ==a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,”,"Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:01 GMT”,void 0,t,void 0)): (i+=-1,n =Izibalo.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=function(){r||(r=!0,e())};Into (g.logInfo)(” “.concat(E,” – 拍卖延迟 “).concat(j,” 最多获取 ids”)),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)}enye i-caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END ,函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(function(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&e() }函数 K(e,t){H(umsebenzi(){!umsebenzi(e,t){[e].some(umsebenzi(e){buya!Array.isArray(e)||!e.length})||e.forNganye(umsebenzi(e){e.bids&&Object(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(function(e){var n=function(e,t){return Array.isArray(e)&e.长度&&t?e.hluzo(umsebenzi(e){return!e.config.bidders||!Object(g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)} ) .filtha(umsebenzi(e){return Object(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).nciphisa(umsebenzi(e,t){return Object.keys(t. idObj).forEach(function(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n]}),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.keys(n).ubude&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Object(pb)(n))})})}(t.adUnits||Object(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]).fumana(umsebenzi(e){return e.source===S });ukuba(n&&”string”==typeof Object(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”) ){var r=n.uids[0].id.replace(/[\W_] /g,"");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.length?{gqibile:!0}:{yekile :!1,ixabiso:e[r++]}},e:function(e){phosa e},f:i}}jula i-TypeError entsha(“Invalid尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n為了可迭代，非数组容数组，非数组容必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)} var o ,a=!0,c=!1;buyisela{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function( ){var e=n.elandelayo();buyisela i=e.kwenziwe,e},e:umsebenzi(e){c=!0,o=e},f:umsebenzi(){try{a||null==n.return||n.return()}最后{ukuba(c)jula o}}}}}(i );zama{for(ss();!(a=sn()).kwenziwe;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1=== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name) ||(Into(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,” – 刷新”).concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.ubude&&N(h), Into(g.isFn)(d.callback)&c.push(d))}} bamba(e){se(e)}ekugqibeleni{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c ),t&&t()}enye into(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 cookie,退出模块”))})}var Y=Object(fb)(“ ”,umsebenzi(e,t){return{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&&t.hasValidated}},”validateGdprEnforcement”);函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;ukuba(“inani”==typeof e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=uMhla omtsha(M(e.config.storage,” okokugqibela”));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!function(e,t){return null! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”umsebenzi”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. i-id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”umsebenzi”==typeof i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))}okanye ukuba(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;enye{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,void 0);Into( g.isPlainObject)(s)&&(“function”==typeof s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) ))}}函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.layisha kwangaphambili&&e.preloadThreshold&function(e,t,n) ,i){return t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(function(){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t))} ,15)):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=function( ){return t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=function(){buyisela t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, le.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=function(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();return i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 { 完成:真}; ，值：o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} phosa i-TypeError entsha(“对不可迭代实例的迣代尝了试无效. ，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalUkugqitywa = yinyani, didErr = bubuxoki, impazamo;buyisela {s: umsebenzi s() {it = o[Symbol.iterator](); N f() {zama {ukuba (!eqhelekileyo ukuQeda && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 {ukuba (didErr) jula impazamo;} } };} umsebenzi _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) {ukuba (! o) buyisela; ukuba (uhlobo o === “umtya”) buyisela _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).isiqhekeza(8, -1); ukuba (n == = “对象” && o.makhi) n = o.constructor.name;ukuba (n === “Imaphu” ||n === “Seta”) buyisela iArray.ukusuka(o); ukuba (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Inyanzelisiwe )?Array$/.test(n)) buyisela _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) {ukuba (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length var i = 0, arr2 = iArray entsha(len); i
Ixesha lokuposa: Jan-19-2022