This piece is adapted from Dressing Up: Women Influencing French Fashion (MIT Press), originally published by MIT News Reader and republished here with permission.
Fashion leaders continue to step up their efforts after COP26 fervently called on the world to take action on climate change.Chloé became the first luxury brand to achieve the coveted “B Corporation status” and now wields that seal of approval, signaling its commitment to reducing its impact on people and the planet through the use of renewable energy and ethically sourced materials, among hundreds of other initiatives s damage.The Worn Wear Centre in Patagonia leads the trade-in but still usable apparel category.It aligns with growing “responsible shopping” thrift companies ThredUp (founded in 2009), Poshmark (founded in 2011) and The RealReal (founded in 2011).Listed transactions, all three have high growth, but not yet high profitability.
At the same time, the fashion media, and WWD in particular, are tracking down fraudulent claims by luxury brands like Coach of supposedly conscious actions that have been found to destroy vast quantities of imperfect handbags instead of repairing or repurposing them.Social media influencers publicly shame them, while podcasters weigh brands’ wins and misses.Fashion journalist Amy Odell, author of the independent “Back Row” newsletter, focuses on false corporate claims.In her predictions for 2022: “Bullshit ‘sustainability’ claims will continue to be taken seriously, although they will soon face tougher regulation in the U.S.” She noted that “this year the FTC will revise its ‘green’ Guidelines,” which aims to help marketers avoid making environmental claims that mislead consumers.”
With “value-based shopping” and “sustainability of product selection” on the rise, now is an opportune time to see how these practices resonate with past practices.How do designers and buyers’ current efforts stack up against their fashion ancestors (like Maison Félix and House of Worth) and their savvy international clients?What can we learn from the 19th century commitment to reusability and upcycling, quality over quantity?
In the late 19th century, French fashion was the ultimate luxury purchase for wealthy American women.Women who spend thousands of dollars on French dresses maximize their investment by repurposing them – wearing them multiple times over a period of seasons or years, in contrast to what they do with their most valuable jewelry No different.They either wear the dress in its original form, re-upholster it, or hire the original manufacturer or a local tailor to remodel it.These practices reflect an emphasis on luxury textiles and are deeply rooted in European royal culture.As historian and curator Kate Strastin describes in Inside the Royal Wardrobe: The Dress History of Queen Alexandra, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, had her tailor Lady Liz and company transformed her British-made wedding dress into an evening gown.In March 1863, a few days after her marriage to Edward VII.Strastin tells us that for the 1874 Marlborough Ball, the Elise Company appears to have adapted the outfit Alexandra wore at the Waverley Ball in London in 1871.The dress bears the Elise label and is preserved today in the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection at Kensington Palace.
Mary Endicott Chamberlain wore the same pale blue silk dress of House of Worth with lace, beading and velvet to two separate court events in London in March and July 1893.The first event was a reception in the drawing room of Queen Victoria at Buckingham Palace, and the second was the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of York (later King George V and Queen Mary).She’s also used to sending her Worth gowns back to the fashion house for a makeover, like she did when she wanted a Van Dyke lace collar on a red satin dress.
In the early 2000s, upper-class women in America adopted royal precedent for repurposing clothing.When Elizabeth Patterson of Baltimore married Jerome Bonaparte in 1803, she wore an embroidered white muslin dress, which she has worn several times since.Nancy Fowler McCormick’s French dress, now in the collection of the Chicago Historical Society, shows signs of being re-worn.She attended many social events with her husband, millionaire Cyrus Hall McCormick, and wore a Worth gown to her son’s wedding in 1904.
Many elite dresses become heirlooms, written in wills, and then it is up to the heirs to choose how they will wear them, with or without alterations.In her memoir, Alva Vanderbilt Belmont recalls how much she and her siblings valued the camel hair shawl, and the lace tulips left in her will for their mother’s wedding dress leaf edge.Both Alva and her daughter Consulo later used lace on their wedding dresses.Likewise, in 1883, philanthropist Caroline Louisa Williams French of Boston, Massachusetts, purchased a dark blue velvet suit with chinchilla fur trim and a Maison Lipman label for 1,600 francs.The brand, run by Madame Camille Lipman, ran in Paris in the 1880s, and its clients included Maria Pia, Queen of Portugal.Some 37 years later, Alice Williams Pearse, a descendant of French, is pictured in a gown and chinchilla bag, without a coat, at an event celebrating the Nineteenth Amendment, which The amendment gave women the right to vote.The costumes and photographs are now housed in Historic New England.Orme Wilson Jr. and Richard Thornton Wilson III donate a collection of gowns to the Metropolitan Museum of Art by Houses of Worth, Doucet, and Paquin, further providing a glimpse into how couture has grown through a branch of one family Feel.The Wilson brothers are the sons of William Buckhouse Astor Jr. and Caroline Astor’s daughter Carrie.
For events like the Centennial Ball held across the country in 1876, women commissioned gowns that mimic those worn by their ancestors in portraits and photographs.Fashion designers, who are often involved in creating historically-inspired stage costumes, are well-equipped to create replica gowns.Some women used pieces from their personal antique lace collections on various occasions, as did the Astors, who collected 18th-century Flemish and French lace, some of which have survived.At the wedding of her daughter Helen to James R. Roosevelt in 1878, Caroline Astor proudly wore a black velvet gown with a 200-year-old lace trim.
Another outlet for reuse is through rubbish from owners to their maids or charity recipients.Caroline Astor donated clothes to a women’s hospital, while Cornelia Stewart, who is married to retailer AT Stewart, is said to have given some of her clothes to a woman in need Singer in stage costume.As Diana de Marley (author of “History of Haute Couture”) and Kate Strastin have shown, the practice was a product of European royal practice of handing the dress to the handmaids, Queen Victoria and Alex So did Princess Sandra.Wales.Another flow is to sell dresses to second-hand dealers, descendants of Europe’s long-established trade in used clothing.In Paris, this trade has existed since the 13th century, and by the 18th century it was concentrated around Les Halles.In the 19th century, members of the royal family would sell to some clothing brokers.
Since the early 18th century, England also has a history of selling royal and aristocratic clothing on old clothes exchanges in East London, as Jennifer Le Zotte details in her book From Goodwill to Grunge.She further explained that in New York, a strong second-hand trade on the Lower East Side was fueled by the arrival of large numbers of recent European immigrants between 1880 and 1920, run primarily by Jews with experience in peddling and tailoring.Some advertised in local newspapers offering to buy discarded clothing.Advertisements may be necessary as hawkers appear to be regularly banned from buying clothing in charity raid sales.Anti-Semitism came into play here because Jews were historically seen as dominating the trade, which was created out of necessity when they were banned from their professions and turned to touring cart sales.
Performers get creative in how to obtain and handle expensive costumes.When opera singer Emma Abbott died in 1891, actress Jeanne Kimball bought the Worth and Félix gown Abbott had worn in Carmen a few years earlier.Kimball bought them for her daughter Corinne, a rising star on stage.When Elena of Montenegro was unable to use several new Félix gowns for a period of time in mourning for the Italian king Umberto I killed by anarchists, the couturier first put them at the Universal Exhibition in Paris On display 1900.While visiting the exhibition, Francesca Redding admired the leaf-rolled green silk and chiffon gown, bought it, and quickly put it on stage.Social expert Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette’s wardrobe, which was carefully traced in extant invoice archives, was reportedly sold to New York theatre client Eves after her death and was worn by multiple actresses, according to reports. .Finally, actress Sadie Martinot sold her own Worth and Félix stage gowns at auction in May 1894 for $35,000 (more than $1.1 million today) .The performers also sold their stage dresses to second-hand dealers whose storefronts were, as The Sun described them in 1892, “with skirts, skirts, and Basque clothes hung three or four stories deep”.
Buyers in second-hand stores are middle-class women whose clothes will last for years.Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh of Illinois documents in her journal and her fabric scrapbooks the dresses and suits she would recreate or “ripped” over the years, including one she wore at the World Columbia Show in Chicago Suits, notably, held the event during the national financial crisis of 1893.With careful planning and maintenance, garments can be preserved and worn often.While rain, mud, moths and mold raise further concerns, multi-layered underwear acts as a barrier between body oils and dirt and the bulk of the garment.
The practice of acquiring what you want and then repurposing, circulating and exchanging it has led to French fashion being widely distributed in collections around the world.As Strastin points out, Queen Alexandra’s gown was auctioned by the American Art Association and Anderson Art Gallery in 1937, and a quarter of it was purchased by Erin Lewison and sold at the Metropolitan Museum of Art The School of Clothing was established.
Although these materials have little social awareness in today’s conception—furs, feathers of rare birds, and even headdresses with taxidermy critters are desirable—we might appreciate something inherent in the period , accepted reuse practices, and what we now call upcycling.In addition to the luxury of French fashion they bought, American women brought a certain pragmatism to the market.ThredUp, Poshmark and The RealReal prioritize purpose, deliberately extending the lifespan of clothing as an ethical consumer option and as far away from any desired stigma as possible.In the late nineteenth century, in the highest social circles, there was nothing to remove stigma.
To borrow the term of fashion education company Motif, American women who bought French fashion in the late 19th century introduced a “circular model in which the garment was designed and developed with the next use in mind”.Buy high quality.Reuse, or donate.
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:{source:”epsilon.com”,atype:3},kpuid:{source:”kpuid.com”,atype:3},imuid:{source:”intimatemerger.com”,atype:1},connectId:{来源:”yahoo.com”,atype:3}};函数o(e,t){var n=i[t];if(n&&e){var o={};o.source=n.source;var a=Object(r.isFn)(n.getValue)?n.getValue(e):e;if(Object(r.isStr)(a)){var c={id:a,atype:n.atype} ;if(Object(r.isFn)(n.getUidExt)){var s=n.getUidExt(e);s&&(c.ext=s)}if(o.uids=[c],Object(r.isFn )(n.getEidExt)){var u=n.getEidExt(e);u&&(o.ext=u)}返回o}}return null}},897:function(e,t,n){e.exports=n(898)},898:function(e,t,n){Object.defineProperty(t,”__esModule”,{value: !0}),nd(t,”PBJS_USER_ID_OPTOUT_NAME”,function(){return w}),nd(t,”coreStorage”,function(){return x}),nd(t,”syncDelay”,function() {return _}),nd(t,”auctionDelay”,function(){return j}),t.setSubmoduleRegistry=function(e){U=e},t.setStoredValue=B,t.setStoredConsentData=L,t .findRootDomain=V,t.requestBidsHook=K,nd(t,”validateGdprEnforcement”,function(){return Y}),t.attachIdSystem=te,t.init=ne;var r=n(11),i= nn(r),o=n(3),a=n(10),c=nn(a),s=n(14),u=n(8),d=n(5),l=nn (d),f=n(9),p=n(15),b=n(7),g=n(0),m=n(12),v=nn(m);函数y(e ,t){(null==t||t>e.length)&&(t=e.length);for(var n=0,r=new Array(t);n1&&void 0!==参数[1] ?arguments[1]:void 0,r=n?”".concat(e.name,”_”).concat(n):e.name;try{if(e.type===A)t= x.getCookie(r);else if(e.type===I){var i=x.getDataFromLocalStorage(“”.concat(e.name,”_exp”));”"===i?t= x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r):i&&new Date(i).getTime()-Date.now()>0&&(t=decodeURIComponent(x.getDataFromLocalStorage(r)))}”string”==typeof t&&”{“===t.trim().charAt(0)&&(t=JSON.parse(t))}catch(e){ Object(g.logError)(e)}return t}function q(e){var t={consentString:”",gdprApplies:!1,apiVersion:0};return e&&(t.consentString=e.consentString,t .gdprApplies=e.gdprApplies,t.apiVersion=e.apiVersion),Object(g.cyrb53Hash)(JSON.stringify(t))}函数L(e){try{var t=new Date(Date.now() +864e5*C).toUTCString();x.setCookie(T,q(e),t,”Lax”)}catch(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数F(){试试{return x.getCookie(T)}catch(e){Object(g.logError)(e)}}函数z(e){if(e&&”boolean”==typeof e.gdprApplies&&e.gdprApplies){if(! e.consentString)return!1;if(1===e.apiVersion&&!1===Object(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData. purposeConsents.1″))return!1;if(2=== e.apiVersion&&!1===Object(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData.purpose.consents.1″))return!1}return!0}function V(){var e=arguments.length>0&&void 0 !==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:window.location.hostname;if(!x.cookiesAreEnabled())return e;var t,n,r=e.split(“.”);if(2 ==r.length)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Date.now()),a=”writeable”;do{t=r.slice(i).join(“.”);var c =new Date(Object(g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,”Lax”,t,void 0),x.getCookie(o,void 0)= ==a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,”",”Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:01 GMT”,void 0,t,void 0)):(i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=function(){r||(r=!0,e())};Object(g.logInfo)(” “.concat(E,” – 拍卖延迟 “).concat(j,” 最多获取 ids”)),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)}else caon(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END ,函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(function(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&&e()}函数 K( e,t){H(function(){!function(e,t){[e].some(function(e){return!Array.isArray(e)||!e.length})||e. forEach(function(e){e.bids&&Object(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(function(e){var n=function(e,t){return Array.isArray(e)&&e.长度&&t?e.filter(function(e){return!e.config.bidders||!Object(g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)}) .filter(function(e){return Object(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj).length}).reduce(function(e,t){return Object.keys(t.idObj).forEach(function(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n] }),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.keys(n).length&&(e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Object(pb)(n))}) })}(t.adUnits||Object(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q()||[]).find(function(e){return e.source===S });if(n&&”string”==typeof Object(g.deepAccess)(n,”uids.0.id”)){var r=n.uids[0].id.replace(/[\W_] /g,”");r.length>=32&&r.length=e.length?{done:!0}:{done:!1,value:e[r++]}},e:function(e){throw e},f:i}}throw new TypeError(“Invalid尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n为了可迭代，非数组对象必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o ,a=!0,c=!1;return{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function(){var e=n.next();return a=e.done ,e},e:function(e){c=!0,o=e},f:function(){try{a||null==n.return||n.return()}最后{if( c)throw o}}}}(i);try{for(ss();!(a=sn()).done;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1=== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name)||(Object(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,” – 刷新”).concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d),h.length&&N(h),Object(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.push(d))}} catch(e){se(e)}finally{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c),t&&t()}else Object(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 cookie，退出模块”))})}var Y=Object(fb)(“sync”,function(e,t){return{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&&t.hasValidated}},”validateGdprEnforcement” );函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;if(“number”==typeof e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=new Date(M(e.config.storage,”last”));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!function(e,t){return null!=n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e. config,t,o):”function”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),”function”==typeof i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))}else if(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;else{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,void 0);Object(g.isPlainObject)(s)&&(“function”==typeof s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config)))}}函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n ){!e.preload&&e.preloadThreshhold&&function(e,t,n,i){return t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(function(){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t))},15)):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=function(){return t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=function(){return t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth},this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=function(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();return i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 { 完成：真 };返回 { 完成：假，值：o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} throw new TypeError(“对不可迭代实例的迭代尝试无效。\n为了可迭代，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalCompletion = true, didErr = false, err;return { s: function s() { it = o[Symbol.iterator]();}, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next();normalCompletion = step.done;返回步骤；}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = true;错误 = _e2;}, f: function f() { try { if (!normalCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 { if (didErr) throw err;} } };} function _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) { if (!o) return;if (typeof o === “string”) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).slice(8, -1);if (n === “对象” && o.constructor) n = o.constructor.name;if (n === “Map” || n === “Set”) return Array.from(o);if (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped)?Array$/.test(n)) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { if (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;for (var i = 0, arr2 = new Array(len); i
Post time: Jan-19-2022